Petunia integrifolia - Violet petunia blooms in spring through fall with erect, 2” flowers. The flowers has funnelform purple corolla...
Petunia integrifolia also called as Violet petunia, Violetflower petunia, Nicotiana integrifolia, Nicotiana violacea, Nierembergia phoenicea, Nierembergia punicea, Petunia phoenicea, Petunia riograndensis, Petunia violacea,Petuni a violacea f. gracilis, Petunia violacea var. hirta, Petunia violacea f. intermedia, Petunia violacea var. lanuginosa, Petunia violacea f. robusta, Salpiglossis integrifolia, Stimoryne integrifolia, Stimoryne purpurea, is a species of the genus Petunia. This species was described by Hans Schinz & Albert Thellung in 1915.
IDENTIFY PETUNIA INTERGRIFOLIA - VIOLET PETUNIA
Petunia integrifolia is native to Southern Brazil to NE. Argentina. It
inhabits the Pampas province and occurs in Argentina, Uruguay, and southern
Brazil (from Rio Grande do Sul to the coast of Santa Catarina), growing on
different kinds of substrata (latossols, sandsoils, and litosoils). It can
also be found on disturbed areas such as roadsides or cultivated lands.
It is a sprawling to erect perennial herb (low shrub) which reaching up to 60 cm high with angular or somewhat winged branches that are sparingly to densely often from near the base. It is recognized by the decumbent stems, elliptic or obovate leaves (linear in some coastal populations).
Violet petunia blooms in spring through fall with erect, 2” flowers. The flowers has funnelform deep purple (or pink to violet coloured), veined corolla, anthers completely opened (flat) after dehiscence, showing the bluish pollen, stigma placed below the anthers of the longest pair of stamens, and deflexed pedicels in the fruiting state. Each flower will turn into a brown seed capsule, containing many very tiny blackish-brown seeds.
PETUNIA INTERGRIFOLIA - VIOLET PETUNIA CARE AND CULTURE
Cultural information should only be used as a guide, and should be to be adapted to suit you. Your physical location; where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants.
Light:
Petunia integrifolia perform best in sunny locations with shelter from drying winds although they will also tolerate part shade if necessary. They are facultative long-day plants, since they flower earlier when grown under long days compared to short days. Early-season plants are grown when the natural days are still short, so growers often provide low-intensity long-day lighting to accelerate flowering. Equally successful strategies to create long days include lighting from the end of the day until the day length is at least 13 to 14 hours, or providing lighting during the middle of the night for three to four hours.
Temperature:
Violet petunia are tender perennials in Zones 9 to 11. They are freeze to death at about 30 °F. To prevent cold-related petunia death, dig up your plants and replant them in indoor pots.
The flower seeds germinate once daytime temperatures remain steady between 70 - 85°F. Once established, they do best in temperatures that do not drop below 55 °F at night and 65 °F during the day.
Substrate and growing media:
Petunia integrifolia can be transplanted into the garden after the danger of frost has passed and require a moderately fertile, well-drained soil. Poorly drained soils often can be improved by incorporating organic matter, such as compost, peat, or well-rotted manure. When planting them in the garden dig through plenty of fertilizer to enrich the soil.
The plants can also be grown in garden beds, pots or hanging baskets providing they receive plenty of sun. If growing its in containers it's important that the potting mix you use is of good quality.
Watering:
During dry weather, a deep watering once every 7 to 10 days should be sufficient for the plants in beds and borders. Plants in containers will need to be watered more frequently. Check containers frequently and water when the soil surface becomes dry. Make sure the soil is kept moist when the plants are young.
Fertilizer:
In early to mid-July, start using a liquid fertilizer every two to three weeks. Spreading petunias may need weekly fertilization. The plants growing in containers should be fertilized every 2 weeks with a dilute fertilizer solution.
Pruning:
Pinch out the first few flowers before they open. This will make each seedling bush out and your plants will ultimately produce more flowers and a far better display of colour. It will also give you the opportunity to check for pests. When your plants finish flowering, just prune them back and you'll be rewarded with another flush of fabulous colour. They can easily last for up to a year with this care.
Leggy plants can be rejuvenated by cutting them back to about half their length in mid-summer. After pruning, fertilize and water the plants to promote new growth.
Pests and diseases:
Snails and aphids are the main offenders and there are environmentally-friendly products available at your local garden center to treat each problem swiftly and easily. If their foliage puckers and turns yellowish, check for aphids. Pinch off infested plant tips. Spray major infestations with commercial insecticidal soap according to label instructions.
They are susceptible to several viruses such as curly top, mosaic, ringspot, and spotted wilt which are not curable. Dig up sickly, wilted plants and discard them in the trash so that they do not infect other plants. Do not use tobacco products around petunias. Disinfect any tools that come in contact with infected plants.
Propagation:
Petunia integrifolia is usually propagate by seeds and can be started indoors 10 to 12 weeks before the average last frost date. Containers used for starting seeds should be clean and have drainage holes in the bottom. An excellent medium for starting seeds indoors is a commercially prepared soilless product. Fill the container with the germination medium to within 1 inch of the top and press lightly to firm (if the germination medium is dry, moisten it before filling the container). Carefully sow the seeds on the surface of the germination medium, then gently press the seeds into the medium. The seeds require light for germination. They should not be covered with additional material. After the seeds have been sown, moisten the medium by placing the container in a pan of warm water or by applying a fine spray to the surface of the medium.
Uniform medium temperatures and moisture are required for optimum seed germination. Place the container in a warm (75° to 80°F), brightly lit location. When seedlings emerge, place the container under fluorescent lights or in a sunny window. Fluorescent lights should be no more than 4 to 6 inches above the growing plants and should be left on for 12 to 14 hours. Temperatures should be 65° to 70°F.
When seedlings have 3 true leaves, transplant into plastic cell packs, peat pots, or other containers. To produce stocky plants, keep the seedlings under fluorescent lights or in a sunny window, allow the potting soil to dry between waterings, and fertilize every 2 weeks with a dilute fertilizer solution. Harden the seedlings outdoors a few days before planting into the garden.
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