April 4, 2024

All About Sansevieria

Posted by uconnladybug under Gardening | Tags: , , , , , , |
Comments Off on All About Sansevieria 

The Sansevieria group makes up some of my favorite houseplants. Scientists recently placed them in the genus Dracaena, but its former scientific name seems to also be one of its common names. I will continue to refer to it as Sansevieria in this article to avoid confusion. In the future, you will most likely see the plant tags that come with plants offered for sale finally catch up with this change in the scientific community. This plant has many common names including “snake plant” and my personal favorite “mother-in-law’s tongue”.  Like many varieties of houseplant, there are some staples that have been around for decades, some newer species that have come to market, and some really interesting cultivars or hybrids of all of them. 

A tall variety of Sansevieria trifasciata with gold edges. Photo by mrl2024.

These plants have a rhizome, and the leaves grow from the base of your pot. They are very prolific when they like their environment. In fact, they tend to break the pots they are in, so I would recommend using plastic pots, which their growth will eventually deform. If you want to use a clay or ceramic pot, I suggest putting them in a slightly smaller plastic pot, then putting that in the clay pot. You can hide the gap between the two pots with Spanish moss. Being native to Africa, they cannot tolerate cold temperatures. Typical household temperatures work well, but avoid anything below 55 degrees F. If kept too cold, they will die and rot from the base up. By the time you notice there is a problem, it is too late to do anything about it. Another thing that is nice for the plant collector is that their upright growth habit allows the grower to have many varieties in a small space.

Overwatering is the quickest way to kill any houseplant, but especially so with these. In the winter, you probably only want to water once a month, and sparingly at that. Do not let them get soggy or this otherwise hardy plant will rot. In the warmer months when the plant is actively growing, allow the soil to dry between waterings, but then water more liberally. Some growers will add extra perlite to the mix to aid in drainage. I have not had trouble keeping them in a standard mix, but you certainly need to be careful with watering. Choose the mix that will work best for your plant hydration habits. These plants have the reputation of being a low light plant, which they certainly can handle. Sometimes, however, people place them in the darkest corner of a room where they hang on for a few months, but then eventually run out of stored resources and die. Remember they do need some light to photosynthesize so bright indirect light is best. The other problem I have seen is their unique, flat leaves can become covered in dust. Either dust them manually, use a blower, or take them outside in warm weather and hose them off. A damp cloth run gently over the leaves is probably the easiest method, but becomes more difficult and time consuming with a rather large collection.    

Sansevieria trifasciata ‘Golden Hahnii’ before (top) and after (bottom) division and repotting. Here, each baby plant got its own pot. Photo by mrl2024.

All varieties of Sansevieria are fairly easy to propagate. If you want more plants quicker, you can take leaf cuttings. You either dip in rooting hormone and replant, or you can place the cuttings in water to take root (change the water daily for best results). You must be careful with the orientation, as you want to plant the bottom side of the cutting into the soil, not the top, which will fail to root. It is easy to get confused and forget which end is up. Some people put a mark on the top or bottom, others cut in such a way as to indicate the bottom. It really doesn’t matter which method you choose, if any, as long as the cuttings are oriented properly at planting time.  There is one big problem with using cuttings – the babies will look like the standard green variety, and not have any of the nice golden edges, so be careful with this method. I also don’t like doing this as it, in my opinion, just looks unsightly. The remaining stub on the parent plant looks awful. If I was to do this, I would recommend cutting near the base of the plant by the soil surface. The cut leaf will not regrow, and instead just will look damaged. In the new pot where the cutting was placed, you still have to look at the cutting as it does not grow. It is not until the baby plants growing from the base are big enough that you can separate it from this actual cutting piece. 

My favorite way to propagate these plants is to let them grow, and then divide them during repotting. You simply pull the plant out of the pot and divide the rhizomes up so that each plant is separate, or in small clumps. This does require the cutting or breaking of the rhizomes, but this will not hurt the plant in the long run. This method produces the best-looking plants in my opinion. Even if you just have one plant per pot, they still look nice afterwards with no short, cut, damaged leaves. In favorable conditions, they will send up some new shoots quickly and look fairly nice. The main adult plant still looks nice and uniform after repotting as it has not been cut.  The best part of this propagation method is that you get exactly what you wanted. The plants have the same color and pattern as that of the parent.         

Some short varieties of Sansevieria trifasciata ‘Hahnii’. On left is the wild type coloration, the middle front has an all dark variety, and on the right is ‘Golden Hahnii.’ Photo by mrl2024.

The Sansevieria group can be divided into two types, those with flat leaves and those with cylindrical leaves. Of those two groups, there are species/varieties that grow tall and some that grow short. The tall ones make great floor plants while the shorter ones do well when placed on a table. Most of us are familiar with the tall green snake plant with horizontal dark green stripes.  There is also a very similar one that has gold edges to each leaf. These have been around for many decades. There are some absolutely stunning new varieties on the market today that have selected for any of the colors found in these older varieties. For example, there is one called ‘Moonshine’, which has no pattern in the leaf at all, instead being pale green. Another interesting one is called ‘Hi Color’, which has more yellow than green in the leaves. The yellow is not simply along the margin, but found in the main area of the leaf as well. There are others that are selected for such a dark green that it almost approaches black in color. One of my new favorites is a different species called Sansevieria masoniana, commonly referred to as “whale tail,” “shark fin,” or some combination thereof. These can get up to 4 feet tall with proper growing conditions in a greenhouse, but generally smaller in a home setting. No matter which one you choose, you really cannot go wrong with these plants. They are readily available at most nurseries, garden centers, and home stores, so why not pick one or two up and brighten up your home?       

Matthew Lisy PhD

UConn Adjunct Professor

 

February 17, 2024

Cold Tolerance in Houseplants: An Unintentional Experiment

Posted by uconnladybug under Gardening | Tags: , , , , , , , , , |
Comments Off on Cold Tolerance in Houseplants: An Unintentional Experiment 

There are a few different ways that people keep houseplants. Some people place the plants in their homes, and then leave them there permanently. For others, the houseplants are simply overwintering in the house, but their true home is outdoors. I tend to be the second type. This type of behavior leads to some problems, the worst being where do you put all the plants in the winter. For temporary housing, it is difficult to ensure the plants have adequate light, water, and temperature. It is fairly easy to water the plants, and with the copious amounts of LED fixtures on the market today, light is no longer that difficult either. Temperature, however, can be a bit tricky and potentially expensive.

I like to put my plants in the basement for the winter. It is easy to maintain them, and if I spill a little water it doesn’t really matter. Normally, it is best to keep tropical houseplants above 50 degrees F, but 60 F is even better. My basement is generally in that range, but with the severe cold spells we have had this winter, the temperatures have dropped into the upper 40s. The other important thing to remember is that heat rises. The floor of the basement can be as much as ten degrees colder than shoulder height on a human. There can be pockets of cold that pool in areas imperceptible to us. There are a number of solutions to all these problems, but that is beyond the scope of this blog. I brought my houseplant collection in and due to the cold spells completed an unintentional experiment! I will discuss the results here in hopes that others can learn from my misfortune.

First of all, it is important to realize that each species will have its own temperature preferences.  It is not uncommon for one species to be able to tolerate the cold, and yet another closely related species will not. In the field of Ecology, there is a well know optimal zone that our houseplants prefer. These are temperatures from about 60 to 90 degrees F. Now, not all houseplants fit this zone, but I am generalizing for the purposes of this discussion. Outside of this range, are the zones of stress. The plants may still live in this range for a short period of time, but this is not ideal or preferable.  For example, let’s say on the cold side we go down to 50 degrees, and on the warm side 100 degrees F. Beyond the zones of stress are the zones of intolerance. This is where the temperatures are too extreme and the plants cannot live. In my fictious but somewhat realistic example, let’s say below 50 and above 100 degrees F. Plants usually don’t immediately die, but could suffer leaf drops or dying leaves. 

The rare and beautiful Philodendron ‘Silver Stripe’ does not seem to mind the cold one bit. Photo by mrl2023.

There are many reasons plants cannot live outside of a certain temperature range. For one thing, if it gets too cold and the tropical plants are subject to freezing that really needs no explanation.  On the other end, too hot and they may desiccate, or dry out faster than they can replenish the water. Afterall, they are in a relatively small pot with limited moisture. Beyond that, one of the greatest obstacles for our plants (and everything else) boils down to chemistry. Living organisms are full of all sorts of chemicals that undergo reactions. If our enzymes that make these reactions happen faster and with less energy are subject to temperatures beyond their ideal range, they may denature, or change shape, in a way that makes them unusable. Think of breaking your house key, and then trying to use the remaining piece to unlock your door – it won’t work!  So, for our houseplants, even though they are not subject to extreme hot or cold, temperatures outside their ideal range may not allow them to live because the chemical reactions necessary to maintain themselves simply do not work. For some, this process happens quickly, but for other species, it is a slower process. Each species has a different tolerance level.

The groups of mostly tropical houseplants I will discuss here are by no means an exhaustive list.  These are simply a group of plants that were subject to the cold basement temperatures during some of our cold spells. For plants in the rest of my house, they were all fine. I heat the house to a nice toasty 55 degrees F but have supplemental heat in the areas we occupy often. That 55 degrees F seems to be a comfortable minimum threshold for most houseplants. Be careful not to over water in cold temperatures as that easily leads to rot and subsequent death!

Cacti and succulents have the most cold hardiness. I have kept this group of plants in cold basements for years without any issues. It is important to give them just a little bit of water.  These plants are not usually growing at these temperatures, but rather sort of ‘chilling out’. They will resume active growth when placed outside next spring, or when the basement warms up provided there is adequate light. I know a number of cacti and succulent collectors that have simple hoop houses outside with two or three layers of plastic that are heated to a max of 50 degrees F with no troubles. I would advise doing your own research for your specific species of plants should you desire to embark down this path.  

The Gesneriads, of which I am so fond, love cool basements. This group includes African Violets and Cape Primroses. They actually prefer these cooler temperatures, but will suffer in warmer summer months. Pothos also seems rather tolerant of the cold temperatures, although their leaves seem a little droopy. One exception here is the Scindapus treubii ‘Moonlight,’ which died almost immediately. The Philodendrons are a real mixed bag. Any of the larger-leaved floor plants seemed to die almost immediately even at the 50-degree mark. The Philodendron “Pink Princess” and similar types seemed to tolerate the cold up until about February, and now are showing signs of extreme stress. These I am going to move! The hanging basket species, with the exception of the ‘Micans’, seem to be looking fabulous in the cold and not even bothered at all.  All of my ferns do not seem to mind one bit either. All of the Calathea and Sansevieria species are struggling or dying. The always raved about ZZ plants (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) both died almost immediately in the cold temperatures as well. I had both the green and black varieties.  The last plants I will comment about are the Poinsettias. These are difficult to grow due to their sensitivity to temperature, specifically cold. I once had the greenhouse heat stop working one evening. I discovered this the next day and many of the plants dropped their leaves. Even buying them at the store and walking out to the car can result in dropped leaves. If possible, these should be wrapped before leaving the store. Most other houseplants can tolerate the trip home in a cold car, but try to buy them on your way home so they don’t spend too much time in the car.

The Rabbit’s Foot Fern, along with all the ferns in my collection, are not harmed by cold spells. Photo by mrl2023.

Well hopefully my little unintentional experiment with the cold will help people decide where to overwinter their houseplants. I may need to heat that space slightly in future years if I decide to move some of those sensitive plants into that location for the winter. To avoid the coldness of the floor, a board placed on cinder blocks can provide some protection, as can an overturned flower pot underneath the one in which the plant is growing. Isn’t it wonderful knowing that Spring is just around the corner? 

Matt Lisy PhD, UConn Adjunct Professor

 

February 9, 2024

Hearts for Valentine’s Day

Posted by uconnladybug under Gardening | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , |
Comments Off on Hearts for Valentine’s Day 

While there’s always the traditional Valentine’s Day gifts of flowers and candy, why not give that special someone a plant with heart-shaped leaves that will likely last much longer than chocolates or bouquets. There are actually a number of plant species to choose from with some being quite easy to grow.

Perhaps the cutest, as well as the easiest is the Sweetheart hoya (Hoya kerrii). Hoyas are a very slow growing, vining plant with stems that may reach 13 feet in length. Typically, it is grown in a wreath form or on a trellis. The pink or white flowers are fragrant but not produced in great abundance. 

While this plant has the most adorable heart-shaped leaves, the ones that are sold as a single leaf in a pot will, in most cases, remain as a single leaf. Unless a piece of stem was left attached to the potted leaf, the plant is not able to initiate new leaf or stem formation. This makes for a simple plant to care for, however. Keep your Sweetheart hoya leaf in a bright sunny spot with temperatures in the 60 to 80 degree F range and water when dry.

Hoya heart-shaped leaves. Photo by dmp.

Another plant for small spaces with charming marbled, heart-shaped leaves is the String of Hearts (Ceropegia woodii). While the dainty individual stems can grow 12 feet long, they can be trimmed to keep the plant compact. The grey-green leaves are small, only about ½ inch in diameter. String of Hearts is a succulent best grown in a potting mix labeled for cacti and set in bright, filtered sunlight. Let plants dry out slightly between waterings. Keep away from drafts and note that plants may go dormant if the temperature falls below 60 F.  

String of hearts. Photo by Shelley Durocher, 2024.

Philodendrons (P. hederaceum) have been grown for ages and with good reason. These tough, vining plants with heart-shaped leaves tolerate the lower light levels found in many homes. Stems may grow 3 feet or longer and plants are best suited to a hanging basket or trellis. Exciting newer cultivars such as ‘Brasil’, ‘Cream Splash’ and ‘Rio’ offer variegated leaves. Grow plants in bright, indirect light and avoid overwatering. Trim plants if they overgrow their bounds.

More recently, anthuriums with their flashy colored spathes in red, orange, pinks, and purples have been livening up the holiday plant scene. Both the spathes, which are modified leaves, and the true glossy, green leaves are shaped like hearts. Plants grow to about 16 inches high and if content will produce long-lasting colorful spathes several months of the year. Tiny flowers are on the tail-like spike that emerges from each spathe. Anthuriums also appreciate bright but indirect light, a well-draining, acidic soilless potting media and to be kept moderately moist.

Anthurium. Photo by Shelley Durocher, 2024

Similar in care to anthuriums, syngoniums have heart-shaped leaves and new varieties come in various shades of pink, purplish red and even variegated cultivars. Syngoniums are evergreen climbers but can be maintained as a shrubby houseplant if trailing stems are removed. As the plant ages, leaves become more arrow-shaped. Plants enjoy warmth and humidity and do best in moderately moist potting mixes and in bright diffused light.

Pink syngonium, Photo by dmp, 2024.

A little harder to find but worth the search is the Heart Fern (Hemionitis arifolia). Like many tropical ferns, it prefers indirect light in a warm, humid location. Plants may reach 10 inches tall and wide. The leaves are dimorphic, with the sterile fronds being heart-shaped and the fertile ones resembling arrowheads. Unlike most ferns, the foliage is thick and leathery. Being an epiphyte, plants should be grown in a light, airy potting mix and kept moist at all times.

Lastly, there are varieties of English ivy (Hedera helix) with heart-shaped leaves. ‘Sweetheart’ and ‘Heart’ are two common cultivars. Blue-green leaves form along stems that can be trimmed to any length. Grow as a hanging basket or in a decorative pot. English ivy enjoys cooler temperatures and bright but diffused light. East or north facing windows are ideal locations.

This year, mix it up a little for Valentine’s Day and give the heart-felt gift of a plant with heart-shaped leaves. Do note that some of the above plants are toxic if consumed so should be kept away from children and pets.

Dawn P.

 

January 4, 2024

Pretty Cape Primroses

Posted by uconnladybug under Gardening | Tags: , , , , , , |
Comments Off on Pretty Cape Primroses 

If I could only have one species of houseplant, I would pick the Cape Primrose, or Streps, as they are sometimes called. These are sometimes also referred to by their full scientific name, Streptocarpus, and are usually hybrids of a few different species. Interestingly, these plants are related to the familiar African Violet and are part of a large family of plants called Gesneriads (Family: Gesneriaceae). These are all beautiful plants that are grown mostly for their exquisite blooms, but a few have exceptional foliage as well. Most of the Strep hybrids offered for sale have elongated, green leaves. I did have one variety a long time ago that actually had variegated leaves. There are pure bred species of Streptocarpus for sale if you hunt, but these have much smaller, plain flowers that pale in comparison to the hybrids. 

Although the care is similar to African Violets, I find Streps to be a lot more forgiving. They are not as prone to rotting and they grow a lot faster. In general, they are probably the most hardy Gesneriad I have kept. In addition to being easier to keep, they bloom profusely in the home.  Their blooms are the best part of these plants as they are much larger than the flowers on African Violets. Although the plant will frequently put up a few blooms, with proper care, the plant will send up many and make quite the display! The trumpet-shaped flowers come in just about every color you can think of, as well as bicolors. Some of my favorites have one color on the outside of the flower, and different color on the inside. Flower petals may also be ruffled, and some even have splashes of other colors on the flower, making it look like someone threw paint on them.  Their colors include red, blue, purple, black, white, yellow, and various combinations. They do not need much light, and a bright window or table lamp will provide them with all that they need.  They thrive under fluorescent and/or LED lighting. This allows the grower to have a large collection of them.

A stunning two-toned Cape Primrose called ‘Deep Blue Vein’. Photo by mrl2023.

The only downside to Streps is that they do not like hot weather. They generally stop blooming during this time, and frequently need water. If allowed to dry too much, or with repeated drying, these plants may suffer greatly or die. But this disadvantage is also their advantage. They actually prefer cool, moist areas. In the summer, I like to put mine outside underneath a big mature tree where they thrive in the shade. Don’t forget to water them frequently in the warmer weather. They generally bloom profusely in this setting.

A blue Cape Primrose with purple veining.  Photo by mrl2023.

Over the winter, when just about everything else outside is dormant, and even our regular houseplants are trying to get to the spring, these Cape Primroses are thriving. A cool, moist basement is their ideal growing condition, provided you give them some artificial light. Many other species of houseplants do not like a cold, drafty basement and can get a fungus and die.  Cape Primroses are the opposite. Mine seem to be very happy and continue to bloom throughout the winter. They do occasionally take some short breaks between large blooming events at various times of the year, but these are not too frequent. 

Although normally known for a large color palette, this is one of the author’s favorite Steptocarpus because it is all white with no other color present – not even in the throat. Photo by mrl2023.

As stated above, they are related to African Violets, and have similar cultural requirements. The planting medium should have some extra perlite added to it to improve drainage. Soggy soil is the way to kill either of these plant species. Do not let the pot sit in the water that collects in the saucer for more than a half hour or so. Let the plants dry between waterings. Streps will actually start to wilt if they get too dry but perk up with prompt watering. Do not let this happen repeatedly as this can be a terrible stress on the plant and may reduce blooming. I like to fertilize each time I water with an African Violet fertilizer per package directions.   

Note the elongated, trumpet-shaped flowers on this Streptocarpus ‘Strawberry Ice’. Photo by mrl2023.

One of the greatest joys of plant keeping is propagating them. Cape Primroses are rather easy to propagate. Simply take one of their elongated leaves and cut it into pieces. Dip one end into some rooting hormone (I prefer the powder type). Plant this shallowly in the same type of potting medium as used for the adult plants. Water well and place a small plastic bag upside down over the plant/pot to keep the humidity high as the plant does not have any roots to absorb water yet.  If you are propagating a number of them, get a 1020 tray and cover it with one of the taller humidity domes. Keep the cutting watered, but not soggy. In no time, you will see new plantlets sprouting from the surface. I find these new plants to be extremely hardy. Pot up when the plant looks too big for the pot, but be careful not to rush this part. A good indicator is when the plant needs to be watered more than once a week.

Despite all of the perks to these plants, they are surprisingly hard to find. Many of our plant stores do not carry them, and I have never seen them in the big box stores. I think it is due to their lack of heat tolerance. Shipping temperatures are hard to control, and an extended period without water would be fatal. Fortunately, there are many online retailers that will ship these plants year-round. Another option, if you really like these plants, is to join a Gesneriad society or local plant group. This will allow you to trade varieties with other enthusiasts. Hopefully you are able to find some and give Cape Primroses a try!

Dr. Matt Lisy, UConn Adjunct Professor

 

October 11, 2023

Incredible New Houseplant Varieties

Posted by uconnladybug under Gardening | Tags: , , , , |
Comments Off on Incredible New Houseplant Varieties 

As the old saying goes, “Variety is the spice of life.” Nothing could be more true for houseplants. I was bitten by the houseplant bug as a little kid when I found a book on the subject in an end table. All the variety of plants was amazing to me. Now by variety, in this sense, I am talking about species. There were so many species that would fill our homes and bring us joy. As time marched on, we have seen that number of species kept indoors skyrocket. As people became better at keeping the more common houseplants, the tougher to keep groups started to get more attention. As all this is happening, selective breeding and hybridizing has made some incredible varieties of plants. In the past, traditional propagation methods would take years just to see the plants in stores, and then they would cost exorbitant amounts of money! Now that tissue culture is an option, these unique individuals can be massed produced in a record amount of time, and become available to the public for a reasonable price (or they should be).     

As one can imagine, I could fill encyclopedias with all the wonderful new plants out there. For the sake of brevity, I will stick to a few of my newer favorites for this blog. There are a few groups I will talk about that are my all-time favorites with amazing new additions, and then talk of a few odd balls that I think everyone should have. The best part of all this is that the big box stores just started carrying many of them. Now normally I prefer to patronize the garden centers, but during COVID, the prices of houseplants jumped so dramatically that I had a hard time justifying purchasing one. These plants are in no way some sort of special list, but just ones that have caught my eye this past summer. Of course, there were too many to list, but these are a handful of some of the best. 

The first plant on my list is related to the famous “Pothos” types. I can still remember buying the mostly green-leaved common type. It was easier to grow than philodendrons, and not as finicky about watering. The Holy Grail’s at the time were the ‘Golden’ and ‘Marble Queen’ versions.  The more broken the pattern on the leaves, the more desirable the plant. Nowadays, these two types are very common and in exceptional form. I am not sure if the original green variety is even sold anymore! The genus underwent some revisions over the years, but the common name “pothos” stuck. This new type of pothos is called Scindapsus treubii ‘Moonlight.’ This stunning plant has silver leaves with green margins and a green stripe down the middle.  Care is similar to the more familiar varieties, but be sure to give it plenty of bright, indirect light. 

Scindapus treubii ‘Moonlight’ is a beautiful and unique looking houseplant. Photo by mrl2023.

Next, we jump to another familiar genus of plants – the Philodendrons (this is both a common name and a scientific name). These heart-shaped-leaved plants have always had a place in our homes. This genus, however, is one of the most diverse! There have been many new varieties brought to the market. The nice part is, some of them are finally readily available, and the price is really coming down. The plant I am talking about is Philodendron micans, which was its previous scientific name and now has become its common name. It is correctly known now as Philodendron hederaceum var. hederaceum. Either way, this is a beautiful plant with velvet-like leaves. Like all philodendrons, it prefers a rich, well-draining, moist soil. Soggy soil will be the death of any of the philodendrons. The other interesting thing about this plant is the leaf color.  They can vary from a green to a red/maroon. Younger leaves can even have a yellow-orange complexion. Avoid direct sun, or the leaves can burn. Bright, indirect light is best for this plant as well.

The Micans Philodendron is a beautiful plant with velvety leaves, which is hard to capture in a photograph. Photo by mrl2023.

The next two plants on my list are both Philodendron species, but not the kind that are found in hanging baskets. I am talking about the large-leaved floor plants that do best with a moss pole to climb. They come in all different colors and patterns. I honestly have trouble picking my favorite as they all have a certain amount of charm and uniqueness. The two I am listing here are the newest ones in my collection, so they are getting some special attention. The first is Philodendron ‘Birkin.’ This plant does not actually occur in nature, but instead is a mutation that popped up in captivity.  Bright light will help the plant colors look their best, but once again avoid direct sun or you will scorch the leaves.

Philodendron ‘Birkin’ is actually a mutant and therefore does not occur in nature. The beautiful white streaking in the leaves is characteristic of this mutation. Photo by mrl2023.

A related plant with a similar growth habitat is Philodendron erubescens ‘Pink Princess.’ This plant has pink variegation randomly in the leaves.  he amount of pink can vary in each leaf, and some can be mostly pink. The brighter the light, the better the color of this plant. Until recently, this cultivar would cost $100-$150 or more for a four-inch pot. I have just started seeing this in some big box stores for $20 in a six-inch pot. Care is the same for the other philodendrons talked about in this article. These large floor-type can get boron deficiency rather easily, and then not unfurl the new leaves properly. The best way to avoid this is to use a granular fertilizer, as these usually have this element. Read the information on the package to determine if this element is in the fertilizer you are planning to use. It is generally absent from the common already prepared liquid blends.      

The next new plant comes in two types. Truthfully, it has been around for a while, but has a really unique appearance and a brand new variety.  I am talking about Zamioculcas zamiifolia.  This plant looks very unique from all our other houseplants with its oval leaves growing along fleshy stems. They can get to about 3 feet tall. They are very fast growing, and can tolerate our indoor home conditions rather well.  My new favorite is Zamioculcas zamiifolia ‘Dowon,’which instead of green is all black.  Bright light will help maintain its dark coloration. Although the new growth may be green, with time it will darken up like the rest of the plant. This genus can handle moderate to low light, but should be watered much less than the typical houseplant.  Overwatering will cause rotting of the fleshy stems. Unfortunately, once you realized you watered too much, it can be too late and you might lose the whole plant.   

Zamioculcas zamiifolia – the wild-type on the left, and cultivar ‘Dowon’ on the right, are interesting looking houseplants that quickly grow up to three feet tall. Photo by mrl2023.

My last selection for this article is the Blue Star Fern, Phlebodium aureum. Although they sound exotic, they are fairly easy to come by. I have even seen them recently at a big box store grown in hanging baskets. I do not prefer them grown in this way, as they look better as a floor plant. I reserve the hanging baskets for the plants that exhibit a trailing growth habit. Unlike many ferns, this one tolerates the lower humidity in our home quite well. If it dries between waterings, it may start to wilt, but quickly perks up with prompt watering. Do not let the wilting get beyond slight drooping, however. It seems to be fairly easy and forgiving. The beautiful blue foliage is hard to capture in a photograph but looks stunning when grown near some “normal” green-leaved plants.

The Blue Star Fern, Phlebodium aureum, is unique among ferns not only for its blue color, but its tolerance of our typical drier home conditions. Photo by mrl2023.

For all these reasons, I recommend adding one of these plants to your home/collection.  It will certainly be a conversation piece for all your guests! 

Matt Lisy

 

September 15, 2022

Bringing the Outdoors in for the Winter

Posted by uconnladybug under Gardening | Tags: , , |
Comments Off on Bringing the Outdoors in for the Winter 

I don’t want to depress anyone, but its almost over. Winter is coming, and it will come fast, thereby ending our beautiful growing weather. We can enjoy the last few days of warm weather before the nights start getting significantly cooler. Fairly soon, when temps start dipping below 50oF, we should be bringing in our houseplants. Not everything that beautified our yard all summer needs to fall victim to Old Man Winter, however. Some plants can winter over nicely and be saved for next year.

This unique geranium with beautiful dark leaves would make a great houseplant over the winter. Photo by mrl2022.

The first thing to understand is that you will be going from one extreme to another. The amount of solar radiation outside compared to what is inside is literally going from one end of the spectrum to the other. A brightly lit window, even if sunny, does not really compare to unfiltered direct sun. Fluorescent or LED light fixtures are great, but they need to be close to the plants (right above, nearly touching). The more lights the better. There are higher powered artificial lights available (like high intensity discharge, sodium lights, metal halide, etc.), but these are not something seen in the common home. Either way, leaves are adapted to the light they are accustomed to, so when going from one extreme to another, you will probably lose some. The best example of this is buying a pothos at a greenhouse or home improvement store, then bringing it home. Leaf loss is normal, especially in the lower/shaded leaves. The plants still look nice, but they are much thinner. If your plant’s journey to the inside is going from shade outside to bright window inside, that generally is not too bad and leaf loss may be minimal. 

These nice-looking houseplants will certainly drop some leaves as they adjust to the lower light levels in your home. Expect the Neon Pothos (left) to lose a lot of the leaves near the base of the pot. Photo by mrl2022

There are a number of hitchhikers that can enter our home when we bring our plants inside. The first, and worst, is the mosquito. If your tray has some water in it, then you might accidentally introduce these into your home. They won’t last too long, but you will wake up with some annoying itchy bumps! Spiders are the next most common. They are normally good, and eat some pests that like our plants, but their webs can get annoying. Their presence triggers many horror-movie like reactions in most people as well. Earwigs are another annoying little critter.  Their pincers on the back end look intimidating. They usually do not do too much damage to your plants. Avoid overwatering the plant which will allow them a moist space in which to survive. One of the most interesting visitors I ever had was a frog! Luckily, I was able to capture him and release him back outside. Usually frogs or toads can be spotted if you carefully inspect your plant. They are more likely to be found under the saucer or pot than inside of it.

Some of my favorite out-for-the-summer plants are banana, various citrus, and fig trees. These do not need a ton of light over the winter either. I like to place them in a cool basement under one light and water sparingly. The first chance I get to move them out in the spring I take it. I like to freshen the potting mix they are planted in and add some fertilizer at that time as well.  They tolerate this type of cultivation fabulously.

In addition to bringing in houseplants, there are some of our annuals that can make fine additions to the home. My absolute favorite are the geraniums. Many times throughout history, these plants were kept in greenhouses or conservatories year-round. A friend of mine said she likes to bring in some coleus. Both of these plants are rather expensive, and it might be nice to save some for next year. There are a number of people that like to overwinter their pepper plants. I find that the best for this are the really hot ones that seem to grow slowly like the habanero. The following year you will have more peppers than you know what to do with. For a number of years, I brought in a large, not-so-hardy rosemary plant.

There are some very pretty plants which just do not seem to do well indoors. The first that comes to mind is the calibrachoa. Although beautiful outside, they seem to struggle indoors. They are not very forgiving if they get too dry. They easily and almost always suffer from western flower thrips as well. I really do not want to deal with spraying pesticides indoors all winter. The same story is true for petunias. Most bedding plants are best left outside – purchase new ones in the spring. Another pest that you need to watch out for are aphids. There are many species of all different colors. If a few sneak in, they can quickly reproduce asexually. The females essentially clone themselves.

Although beautiful and still going strong, calibrachoa generally does not do very well indoors, and is prone to a number of insect pests including western flower thrips. Photo by mrl2022.

No matter what you bring in from outside, I recommending isolating it from your regular indoor houseplants for a few weeks. This is best done in a separate room with the door closed. Any trouble should present itself by then. After the quarantine period, your plants may become a part of your regular collection, or you might simply set them up under some lights in the basement.  Be careful with watering. Cold and soggy soil are a perfect recipe for disease. You don’t have to wait too long before it is spring again! Keep the plants out of real drafty areas that favor the development of diseases as well. 

The last piece of advice is that you may not want to bring in the entire plant. For year I kept my geranium collection going by taking a few cuttings of each plant. These overwintered nicely, took up less space, and required less care. I could fit my whole collection under a few lights.  By the time the spring rolled around, I had nice plants with strong root system ready for a pot. Figs can be grown in this way too (or you might simply want more fig trees).

A mixed collection of houseplants and annuals, many of which will be brought inside for the winter. Photo by mrl2022.

By bringing in some of your favorite annuals, it might help ward off the winter blues. It could save you a little bit of money in the spring, or simply allow you to expand an existing collection of plants. I wonder how many geranium varieties I could have if I just took a few cuttings in each fall? The following spring, I could buy additional varieties. This kind of thinking makes for a large plant collection!

Matt Lisy

 

January 13, 2021

Terrariums are Terrific

Posted by uconnladybug under Gardening | Tags: , , |
Comments Off on Terrariums are Terrific 

Although it really has not been a bad January weather wise, the dull, cold days find me searching for that bit of green. Thoughts turn to inside plants and sprucing them up a bit. Most houseplants respond well to some grooming and repotting. This is also a good time to take a hard look at any dish gardens and terrariums that were made several months or years ago and if the plants have outgrown their space allotment, the planter can be redone. Such was the case of my poor terrarium.

Overgrown terrarium

Houseplant popularity has been on the rise for several years now and many enjoy displaying their plants attractively in dish gardens and terrariums. Our modern day terrariums stem from a discovery by a London doctor, Nathanial Ward (1791-1868). He discovered healthy ferns growing in a glass jar he was using to study moths and caterpillars. The air inside the jar was cleaner than polluted London air and growing conditions could be controlled. The invention of these portable, glass containers, known as Wardian cases, meant that botanists and other scientists could transport plants from their foreign habitats back to Europe for study in a manner more conducive to their survival.

Wardian cases from http://www.wikipedia.com

While the Wardian cases were closed containers, modern day terrariums can be either open or closed. Closed terrariums work best with plants that tolerate or thrive in relatively high humidity and enjoy indirect light. Care must be taken not to overwater and they should not be set in direct sunlight. I remember filling brandy sniffers with mosses, partridge berry, wintergreen, and small ferns during my high school days. After sealing with plastic wrap, these microcosms of the forest floor would share my desk space for months while I did my homework.

Enclosed terrariums are enchanting but lately I have just made open topped ones because it is easier to monitor moisture levels and humidity; lower humidity lessens the chances of disease. Also, if a plant or two sends its stems over the top, it’s a clear, distinct signal that my plants need attention. Usually I wait until winter to redo the terrarium as this is my favorite time to visit greenhouses for that glimpse of spring warmth amid winter’s chill. Last weekend I traveled to Stone Hedge Gardens in Charlton, MA. This is a small family run operation with a delightful selection of herbs and small houseplants, just perfect for terrariums and dish gardens. You can purchase ready-made dish gardens or individual plants to make your own creations. They also sell seasonal plants, silk floral designs, fairy garden accessories, and potting supplies.

Lots of potential terrarium plants at Stone Hedge Gardens in Charlton, MA

For my terrarium makeover, I found an artillery fern, a goldfish plant, an alternanthera and truthfully, I forgot the name of the fourth plant. Try for plants that have similar light and moisture requirements or at least tolerance. Keep in mind that regardless of how cute they look when purchased, just about all plants will grow bigger. That’s what they are programmed to do. Once they have outgrown a pot or dish garden or terrarium, they need to be moved into larger living quarters. If that is not an option, cuttings can be taken, or they can simply be composted. 

New and old terrarium plants

To make or remake your terrarium, first you need a glass container. Be as creative as you like. Look around the house for what containers could be repurposed or go explore a local antique shop for unique finds. I recycled an old acid bottle. Unlike potted plants, no drainage holes are necessary.

Then, gather supplies. Often small rocks or glass pebbles or even colored marbles are used to line the bottom inch or so. To keep the potting media from getting in between the rocks, some place a layer of sphagnum moss but since I did not have any right now, I use a circle cut out of leftover row cover material and placed that over the rocks.

Terrarium supplies

There are plenty of recipes for terrarium potting mixes, but I just find Pro-Mix works fine. I moisten it and mix in a tablespoon of activated charcoal before placing a shallow layer over the row cover. The charcoal is supposed to retard growth of unwanted microbes but I have made terrariums without it and not had problems.

Next carefully remove the plants from their pots and place on the potting mix, filling around the sides with extra mix and gently firming in place. Plants can then be watered moderately. It is easy to apply too much and even though the excess will drain into the rocks below, too much water makes plant roots susceptible to root rot. A mister can be used to remove any potting soil from the leaves of your plants. I usually only water my terrarium twice a month but I do check it more often in hot weather or when the heat is constantly running. Mine sits in a north window and gets turned on Fridays so the plants will not reach for the light.

Finished terrarium – good for another year

Once the planting and watering is finished, add any touches that tickle your fancy. I set in a fairy size gazing globe. Enjoy your creation and once it overgrows its bounds, get some new plants and start anew.

Dawn P.

 

January 10, 2021

Propagating a Few Houseplants

Posted by uconnladybug under Gardening | Tags: , , , , |
Comments Off on Propagating a Few Houseplants 

January is my time to pay more attention to my houseplants. Crowded pots need dividing and give me the opportunity to share plants with friends. Some folks even sell their newly propagated plants on social media sites hopefully for enough money to cover the potting soil and pots. If you are using old pot, wash them with a 10% bleach and water solution to eliminate any old plant diseases. Use fresh potting soil. I buy a larger bag from my local independent garden center. Woodland Gardens near me sells their own bagged mix I love. It is well draining and I have great success with it. Well draining is key to keep the roots from being too wet and giving opportunity for root rot diseases to invade.

Pots need drainage holes.

Pots need to have drainage holes in the bottom to allow excess water to drain into a saucer or dish. Always poor off any water from the saucer after watering. Never let the pot sit in water or the dreaded root rot can happen.

Fill pots to within 1/4 inch of the top edge.

Use a bowl to hydrate the dry potting mix from the bag. Give it a few minutes to soak the water, then spoon or trowel it into the pot being used as the home for the new plant. Fill the pot to within a 1/4 inch of the top lip of the pot. This ensures good air movement over the surface of the soil and leaves just enough space so that the water will run out of the planter over its edge.

Christmas cactus cuttings in water.
Christmas cactus leaf cuttings after several root of sitting in water to develop roots.

From the Christmas cactus above, I twisted off a few leaf segments. I prefer to set them in water for a few weeks to initiate roots to grow, then plant them in potting mix. Another option is the stick the cuttings directly into moistened potting mix allowing the leaf pieces to set roots directly in the soil and container. The soil must be kept damp until the roots have grown enough to anchor in the soil. Both ways work.

Make a hole.

Make a hole to insert the cutting or cuttings.

Three cuttings are placed in this one pot.

It may look a little sparse in the above plant, but it will fill in soon.

Haworthia

Haworthia is a wonderful succulent that sets baby plants at its base. These baby plants can be twisted off the mother plant and stuck directly in moistened soil. Again keep soil moist to develop a new root system. Examine the mother plant to see if it needs repotting if it is root bound. Sometimes just removing the newly produced babies will give the old plant enough room without repotting.

Removed Haworthia baby plant.

Above photo shows the Haworthia baby right after being twisted off of the mother plant. See the attachment point where new roots will emerge once replanted.

Newly planted Haworthia babies.

Keep damp to get roots to grow. Rooting hormone can be used on the bottom tip, but not necessary as they root so easily.

Spider plant.

Spider plants send out long shoots with new plants at the end. Shoot growth will continue to grow adding more baby plants as they extend their reach. In the wild, the new plants will land on a fertile spot and anchor in via new roots produced from the baby plant. As a houseplant these babies can be cut from the shoot and planted directly in moist potting soil or rooted in water. Spider plants are very easy to grow and propagate in vegetatively.

Close up of shoot and new spider plant baby.
Rooting babies in water for a few weeks.
Potted up new spider plants.

by Carol Quish.

 

December 4, 2019

Citrus for Christmas

Posted by uconnladybug under Fruit, Gardening, Houseplants | Tags: , , , |
Comments Off on Citrus for Christmas 

As we head into the short, cold days of the winter solstice is there any food that so evokes thoughts of warm and sunny climes as well as citrus does? As a species, citrus has been cultivated since 3000 BCE and may originated in the area of the Himalayas more than 5 million years ago. Grapefruit, lemons, limes, oranges, and tangerines are among the domesticated sweet-tart fruits of the genus Citrus that we know and love. Most of them are descended from Citrus medica, also known as citron, a large, fragrant citrus fruit. The lemon is a hybrid of citron and bitter orange (Citrus x aurantium), and the many varieties of limes are hybrids of citron, pomelo, mandarin orange and micrantha (a slow-growing, unpalatable species from tropical Asia).

IMG_20191204_131430999

From the top, a pomelo, navel orange, lime, clementine, grapefruit, and in the middle, a lemon.

The Ponderosa lemon, Citrus x pyriformis, is another hybrid of the citron, this time with a pomelo, Citrus maxima. An ever-bearing slow-growing tree with glossy leaves and large ovate fruit, it is often grown as an ornamental plant in Connecticut. Less cold-hardy than a regular lemon, can be grown outside from May to October but will need to be overwintered indoors. I acquired one of these this summer and enjoyed the lovely scent of the large, purple-tinged, blooms each time I passed by it. As of October, none of the many fruit had ripened although they were much larger than the average commercial lemon. I later learned that they can reach the size of grapefruit and that this can take up to nine months!

IMG_20190812_182736559_HDR.jpg

Ponderosa lemon tree outdoors.

Taking care of a Ponderosa lemon is easy. Keep it in a clay or other porous material container that has good drainage. Allow the top inch of soil to dry out between waterings and then give it just enough to moisten the soil without allowing it to become soggy. When the plant is outside during the warmer months it may require daily watering like other container plants. Back inside, it may benefit from being placed on, but not in, a shallow tray of pebbles and water to keep the humidity level up. A monthly dose of a liquid fertilizer while indoors will benefit it, twice monthly when it is actively growing outside. Ponderosa lemon plants may be grafted onto dwarf rootstocks to keep their size manageable. They may still need some pruning to shape them at any time of the year but keep an eye out for the abundant spines along their branches.

IMG_20191203_105505321.jpg

Spines on a Ponderosa lemon tree.

The Ponderosa lemon produces blossoms and fruit year-round. You may wonder how pollination may occur in a home environment where there aren’t any bees or other insects flying about. It is due to the fact that the flowers of the Ponderosa lemon are perfect flowers, containing both male and female reproductive parts within the same blossom. Out of doors the movement provided by a breeze is enough to transfer the pollen grains from the stamens to the stigma. In your home, simply brushing a hand lightly against the flowers can achieve the same result.

So, while the Ponderosa lemon fruit will not be ready for use for a few more months there are still many other varieties of citrus that are ready and willing to grace our holiday tables and treats. For most varieties of citrus, the harvest runs between November and April and possibly into May if the conditions are good. The satsuma, or mandarin, orange (Citrus reticulata) produces fruit from August until December and so it has always been a favorite treat for a Christmas stocking, since the 19th century. We made a Victorian-style ornament from dehydrated slices of oranges, lemons, and limes many years ago and it still graces our tree each year.

The Florida navel oranges, Citrus x sinensis, are at their best from November to January, the California navel from December to May. Using the rind of navel oranges to make candied orange peel is one of the hallmarks of the holiday season for me. Candied, or crystallized, orange peel may seem to be an old-fashioned confection but it is always a popular addition to any cookie tray at the end of a meal. Crystallizing fruit is an easy process of preservation whereby small pieces of fruit or rind are cooked in a simple sugar syrup. When I make candied orange peel for the holidays, I start with 4-5 large navel oranges that have been rinsed and dried. The first cuts remove the navel and stem ends of the fruit. Standing the fruit on one of these flat cuts, cut longitudinal slices of peel away from the inner white pith. These slices often need to be cut lengthwise again into 2 or 3 strips.

IMG_20191203_102237317

When all of the orange peel has been prepared in this way they are put into a saucepan and covered with cold water. Bring them to a boil and then simmer them for 15 minutes. Drain the peel. Repeat this process two more times. This helps to remove bitterness from the peel.

While the peel is draining for the final time, bring one cup of water and two cups of sugar to a boil in the saucepan. Add the drained peel and reduce the heat to a simmer. Allow the peel to simmer until it has become translucent, up to an hour. Transfer the peel to a piece of parchment paper and allow it to cool. Toss the pieces of candied peel in superfine or confectioner’s sugar and allow it to dry overnight.

Keep it in an airtight container and use it to garnish your holiday trays or simply enjoy a few pieces with a cup of tea as you relax in front of the fireplace.

Susan Pelton

UConn Home & Garden Education Center

 

February 7, 2019

Repotting a Moth Orchid

Posted by uconnladybug under Garden Related Activities, Gardening, Horticultural Advice, Houseplants, Nature | Tags: , , , , |
1 Comment 

orchid yellow flower

Cold weather keeps gardening chores indoors. A recently acquired, but neglected moth or Phalaenopsis orchid came my way and needed some attention. I had another one on the window sill in need or repotting and set to the task. Moth orchids can outgrow their pots in about a year’s time as their wandering roots reach outside and above the edge of the containers. In their natural environment, they grow high in the trees, above the soil, taking all of their nutrients from the humid, tropical air, rain and debris which may land around the plant. This manner of growing is called epiphytic.  Leaves grow from a center grouping, sending roots out from just below leaf axis.

Before potting, overgrown roots
Before potting

Mature plants usually flower late winter into spring. Flower show can last for several months. Repotting is best right after flowering. New orchids are often sold with roots packed in sphagnum moss to keep them moist during the shipping and retail portion of their life. Once home, moss and any plastic packing and pots should be carefully removed. Orchid roots like air and will rot if keep soggy and wet.

ceramic pot, plastic liner
moss packed around roots

After removing moss.

moss removed from one in plastic liner in purple pot
old bark removed from neglected one in grey pot

Cut back any dead or rotted roots.

 

roots trimmed - Copy

After cutting back dead roots in moss.

pot half filled with roots above - Copy

Neglected roots cut back.

Phalaenopsis orchids prefer a porous pot such as terracotta which provides plenty of air. Some decorative orchid pots have holes designed in the sides for the roots to access more air. Water these plants and pots over the sink as water will readily run out.

plain terracotta will breathe
Terracotta with extra holes on bottom edge
ceramic orchid pot with holes in sides

Use specially formulated orchid bark mix for potting. The mix should contain bark, perlite and horticultural charcoal. Old bark deteriorates over about a two year period, and should be refreshed annually by repotting to keep the plants strong.

Fill the pots half full of bark mix, then set the trimmed root ball onto the bark, spreading out the roots carefully. Insert a plant stake or chopstick through the bark mix, next to the plant to help anchor the orchid.

pot half filled - Copy

Half filled with bark mix.

Gently add more bark mix over the roots to within one half inch of the top edge of the pot. Fill a large cooking pot or bowl with tepid water. Immerse the entire pot containing the bark and plant into the water to soak the bark for about 20 minutes. Then lift the terracotta pot containing the plant out of the water and let is drain in the sink. If settling occurs, add more bark. Orchids should never completely dry out. Keep the bark moist by soaking weekly, or water just the bark from above. Holes in pots are a must for good drainage.

Finnished one that was in moss in purple pot.
Finnished neglected one in grey pot.

Moth orchid should be placed in bright light, preferably east window. A south or west window will need a sheer curtain or the plant moved back out of the directly rays of sun to avoid leaf scorch.  In their wild home, they would be shaded by the tree canopy.

Orchids thrive in high humidity and temperatures around 75 degrees F with a slight drop at night. In the fall, reduced daylight and night temperatures of 55 degrees F will initiate flower bud formation. To provide more humidity, mist with clear water in the morning or set potted plant on a tray of pebbles and shallow water. The water will make a cone of evaporation surrounding the plant. Fertilize every two weeks with a balanced houseplant fertilizer during spring, summer and fall. Cut to half strength during the winter.

orchid 4

-Carol Quish

 

 

 

Next Page »