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Care Guide
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Climbing onion
Climbing onion
Climbing onion
Climbing onion
Climbing onion
Bowiea volubilis
Also known as : Zulu potato
Planting Time
Planting Time
Late summer, Fall
care guide

Care Guide for Climbing onion

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Watering Care
Watering Care
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
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Soil Care
Soil Care
Sand, Neutral, Slightly alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Full sun, Partial sun
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Ideal Temperature
Ideal Temperature
9 to 11
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Climbing onion
Water
Water
Every 2-3 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Planting Time
Planting Time
Late summer, Fall
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Questions About Climbing onion

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What should I do if I water Climbing onion too much/too little?
Over-watered Climbing onion will develop yellow leaves. It is normal for yellow leaves to develop when Climbing onion has reached the end of their blooming period. However, if the leaves turn yellow before the flowers have bloomed, it is a sign of over watering. If you water your Climbing onion too much, then try to ensure there is adequate drainage and do not give it any more water for a couple of days. You can mix some sawdust into the soil to absorb the moisture. If the situation continues to deteriorate after controlled watering, consider whether the seedpods have rotted. Try digging them up and checking whether they have changed color and become soft. Once you find severe decay, then you should promptly clean out these seedpods. Under-watered Climbing onion actually looks similar to over-watered Climbing onion with their yellow leaves. However, the stems will also droop and leaves will look smaller and will curl. You may also see some brown patches appear. If you have given your Climbing onion too little water, then do not panic. It has a level of drought tolerance. Once you have realised, give it a good drink but do not saturate the surrounding soil. Just make sure it is moist.But do not give them too much and overwater them, you just need to let the soil to be mosit. Extended periods in water can lead to root rot and fungus growing on the bulb. The fungus can cause serious damage to the bulb which is noticed through spots that appear on the leaves and buds. The tips of the leaves may also discolor and die.
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How often should I water my Climbing onion?
It very much depends on the location and the current growth state of your Climbing onion. Once you have planted your Climbing onion, water them well once and then leave them. That initial watering will kick start their growth, but after that you can leave them be until you see shoots appear. If your Climbing onion is in a pot, you will need to water them when the top 1-2inch feels dry. Container plants can dry out faster than bedded plants, so ensure that the soil is damp. If your Climbing onion is planted outside in flower beds and borders, they will not require additional water if it has rained during the week. The Climbing onion has some drought resistance, slight dryness can be recovered quickly after watering, but excessive watering can directly cause the plant to die once the seed ball rots, you need to stay cautious about how often you water the plant.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency according to different seasons or climate for my Climbing onion?
When your Climbing onion is growing, you will need to water about once a week. As the temperature rises, the soil will dry out faster and you will need to increase the frequency of watering. A dry soil environment will be more friendly to your Climbing onion than an excessively wet soil environment. Climbing onion will become dormant during summer and the above-ground parts will completely dry up and die after dormancy,. if you planted it outdoors, you shouldn't need to water it. Moreover, if there's plenty of rain in your region, you should consider digging them out to protect the buds from rot due to too much water. If you planted it in pots, you should stop watering your Climbing onion completely after the dormant part dries out. After the above-ground part dries out completely, dig up the buds and store them in a cool location or stop watering them completely to keep the soil dry. Resume watering until the next sowing season. Or keep them in the soil in a cool location until the next growing season.
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What should I look for when planting my Climbing onion indoors or outdoors?
Monitor your containers for moisture, moving them to a sheltered position if they become sodden or waterlogged. Allow them to dry out and return them when the weather improves. Outdoor planting often takes rainwater into account, and when planting, you should consider planting the plants in well-drained soil to avoid waterlogging and decay. Whether grown indoors or outdoors,before the buds grow out after planting the bulbs, they need very little water and you should try to let the soil dry out completely before watering in small amounts, which will effectively avoid bulb rot. You should wait to water them regularly until they grow new shoots. Your Climbing onion is more susceptible to rot indoors in low light and poor ventilation. Therefore, you need to be careful when watering indoors and make sure that a lot of the soil is dry before watering. If you can keep it moist for a long time indoors, you also need to consider if your Climbing onion is in an unsuitable location. Whereas outdoors, good ventilation and plenty of light will be relatively safe.
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Key Facts About Climbing onion

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Attributes of Climbing onion

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent, Herb
Planting Time
Late summer, Fall
Bloom Time
Spring
Harvest Time
Late summer
Plant Height
61 cm
Spread
10 cm to 20 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
1 cm to 1.6 cm
Flower Color
White
Green
Fruit Color
Brown
Stem Color
Green
Dormancy
Summer dormancy
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
Growth Season
Spring
Growth Rate
Moderate

Scientific Classification of Climbing onion

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Common Pests & Diseases About Climbing onion

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Common issues for Climbing onion based on 10 million real cases
Leaf rot
Leaf rot is a fungal disease that affects the Climbing onion. This disease primarily causes browning and decomposition of the leaf tissues, leading to reduced plant vigor and potential plant death if untreated.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Stem rot
Stem rot Stem rot
Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water. For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Fruit Spot
Fruit Spot Fruit Spot
Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Solutions: Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot. Improve air circulation and drainage Fertilize as needed Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
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Leaf rot
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Leaf rot Disease on Climbing onion?
What is Leaf rot Disease on Climbing onion?
Leaf rot is a fungal disease that affects the Climbing onion. This disease primarily causes browning and decomposition of the leaf tissues, leading to reduced plant vigor and potential plant death if untreated.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Leaf rot in Climbing onion manifests as browning and softening of leaves leading to decay. It also hampers growth and flowering. If left unchecked, the disease may progress to the stem, causing wilting and eventual death.
What Causes Leaf rot Disease on Climbing onion?
What Causes Leaf rot Disease on Climbing onion?
1
Fungi
Leaf rot is typically caused by a variety of fungi, such as Phytophthora and Pythium. These fungi thrive in warm, moist conditions where there is plenty of organic material.
2
Environmental conditions
Overly wet soil, poor drainage, and crowding of plants can create an environment conducive to fungal growth and disease development.
How to Treat Leaf rot Disease on Climbing onion?
How to Treat Leaf rot Disease on Climbing onion?
1
Non pesticide
Proper water management: Avoid overwatering and ensure the plant is in well-drained soil to prevent waterlog which favors fungal growth.

Removal of infected parts: Prune and dispose of infected parts of the plant. Clean tools after pruning to avoid spreading the infection.
2
Pesticide
Fungicide treatment: Apply fungicides that are specific to the fungi causing the disease. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions for application.
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Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
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Stem rot
plant poor
Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Stem rot is a serious disease and can affect many different types of plants. it can be particularly prevalent when the temperature of the soil is over 16 ℃ and there's a lot of moisture in the soil. This could be from unusually heavy rainfalls or too much irrigation. Once stem rot sets in, it's very difficult to get rid of the disease and most affected plants will have to be discarded. This is especially the case for vegetables, herbs, and other herbaceous plants that have soft stems. This is why it's important to ensure that the soil used for growing these plants is well-drained and that overwatering is avoided. Using good cultural practices also help in curbing these types of fungal diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plants that have been affected by stem rot will first display a yellowing of the lower leaves. This is followed by obvious wilting and stunted growth.
If the stem of the affected plant is examined closely, there will be some dark discolorations starting near the base and moving upward. If the roots of affected plants are examined, they will appear dark and mushy instead of white and healthy-looking. Eventually, the entire plant will wilt and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Stem rot is caused by a variety of soil-borne fungus pathogens. The type of fungus depends on the species of plant that is affected. Two fungi responsible for stem rot are Rhizoctonia and Fusarium. These fungal pathogens live in soil and migrate to the plant when conditions are optimum. This includes warm, humid weather and excessive soil moisture. Commonly, vegetable seedlings are affected by these fungi.
Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is another fungus that causes stem rot in plants. This fungus has a host range of over 350 different species of plants. Plants most susceptible to this fungus include many vegetable varieties such as cucumbers, beans, cilantro, carrots, cabbage, melons, lettuce, peas, onions, tomatoes, pumpkins, and squash. This fungus can produce different symptoms in different species. In some cases, the fungus causes irregular spots on stems and other plant material that appear water-soaked. On other plant species, the fungus appears as dry lesions that grow and girdle the stem of the plant.
The third type of fungus that causes stem rot is Phytophthora capsici. Plants that belong to the cucumber family are most susceptible to this fungal infection. This fungus manifests as water-soaked lesions on the stems that then turn brown and girdle the stem.
All of these fungal pathogens are transmitted to the plant by water splashing from the soil up onto the plant. That's because the fungal spores live in the soil where they wait for the right conditions to infect the plants.
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Fruit Spot
plant poor
Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Overview
Overview
If there are brown or black spots on the unripened fruits of plants, there is a good chance that fruit Spot could be to blame. This is an informal term used to describe several types of diseases that all cause these same symptoms: unattractive spots on fruits and vegetables.
There are a few different culprits behind fruit Spot, including bacterial spot, bacterial speck, and other related diseases (like early blight). Here are some symptoms and potential solutions to consider.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of fruit Spot vary depending on which type of plant is affected as well as by which specific pathogen is to blame. Just about every type of plant can be affected by fruit Spot, including tomatoes, pears, plums, onions, strawberries, celery, peaches, and more.
Here are some examples of potential symptoms:
Small Fruit Spot
Small spots are most commonly associated with bacterial speck.
  • Spots may appear on fruits as well as leaves and other aboveground areas of the plant
  • Small black specks appear on infected fruits (spots are less than 1/16” in diameter)
  • Spots are raised with distinct margins, developing into sunken pits as the fruit matures
  • Fruit tissue near the spot stays green longer than the rest of the fruit
  • Spots are dark brown to black in color, with nearby spots often growing together
Large Fruit Spot
Large spots are often seen on plants suffering from bacterial spot, early blight, and related diseases.
  • Spots are large, sometimes larger than 1.3 cm
  • Some spots may look like targets with a brown to greyish coloration
  • Older spots are black and raised with lobed borders
  • Spots are superficial only, not penetrating into the seed cavity
  • Spots may turn into sunken pits, turning into craters as they get older
  • The skin of the fruit can be cracked and produce a water-soaked border
  • Some spots may ooze a gelatinous substance
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are a few culprits behind the fruit Spot. These depend on the pathogen as well as the type of plant. Bacterial speck and bacterial spot are both common diseases that can affect tomatoes, ground cherries, and other plants.
Bacterial speck is caused by Pseudomonas syringae. First discovered in the United States in 1933, it is most common in tomatoes and nearby weeds but can affect other kinds of plants and their fruits, too. It is more prevalent in low temperatures (less than 24 ℃) and high moisture.
Bacterial spot is caused by Xanthomonas campestris pv. Vesicatoria. First discovered in Texas in 1912, this disease is more common in warm weather and conditions of high moisture.
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distribution

Distribution of Climbing onion

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Habitat of Climbing onion

Thicket, grassland, savanna, evergreen bushland, woodland
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Climbing onion

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Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Climbing Onion Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
Common Pests & Diseases
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Lighting
Full sun
The climbing onion flourishes best under extensive exposure to sun rays and can also withstand periods of moderate light. Its light demand mirrors its original habitational circumstances where it thrived under abundant illumination. Lack or excess of sun can harm its growth, causing poor health or coloration.
Best Sunlight Practices
Transplant
3-4 inches
The perfect time to transplant climbing onion is in the early season of growth and rejuvenation, when the temperature starts to rise. It prefers a sunny location with good drainage. Make sure to handle this delicate plant with care for a thriving, verdant display.
Transplant Techniques
Temperature
0 - 43 ℃
The climbing onion is a climber native to the arid regions of South Africa where the temperatures range from 20 to 38 ℃ (68 to 100.4 ℉) during the growing season. This plant prefers warm temperatures and needs to be kept away from frost. In winter, it is essential to decrease watering and reduce temperatures to 5 to 15 ℃ (41 to 59 ℉) to promote dormancy and prepare for the growing season.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Propagation
Spring
The ideal method to propagate climbing onion is by using its tubers in spring. Propagation may be difficult for beginners, but successful growth can be noticed through sprouting leaves. Monitoring watering and ensuring proper drainage is key for propagation success.
Propagation Techniques
Leaf rot
Leaf rot is a fungal disease that affects the Climbing onion. This disease primarily causes browning and decomposition of the leaf tissues, leading to reduced plant vigor and potential plant death if untreated.
Read More
Leaf blight
Leaf blight, primarily caused by fungal pathogens, adversely affects the growth of Climbing onion, causing yellowing and browning of leaves, eventually leading to plant's death if left untreated. The disease is highly infectious and moderately lethal.
Read More
Soft Rot
Soft Rot is a bacterial disease affecting Climbing onion, leading to discolored, water-soaked, and rotten tissues. This infection largely reduces plant growth and aerial root development, often resulting in plant death if untreated.
Read More
Underwatering dry
Underwatering is a common issue in Climbing onion cultivation, leading to water-stress and plant wilting. It's indicated by stunted growth, dry soil, and leaf drooping. Being non-infectious and non-lethal, its impact can be reversed with suitable water management.
Read More
stem brown spot
Brown spot' is a fungal disease that adversely affects Climbing onion. It manifests as dark brown or black spots on leaves, stunting growth. Without treatment, it can cause significant damage or even plant death.
Read More
Wilting
Wilting refers to the loss of rigidity in Climbing onion's parts, often a symptom of water shortage or a disease attack affecting its vascular system. This condition may lead to reduced plant growth or death if not addressed timely.
Read More
Plant dried up
The disease 'Plant dried up' leads to desiccation and potentially death of the Climbing onion. It is primarily caused by poor watering practices, high temperatures, or pathogenic infections, severely impacting the plant's photosynthesis and growth.
Read More
Feng shui direction
West
The climbing onion subtly grants prosperity and tranquility, enriching any space's chi flow when placed correctly. Harmonious in the West, it leverages the Metal element principles in Feng Shui, providing stability and fortitude. However, perceptions differ, welcoming diverse interpretations in harmony with one's immediate environment and intuitive understanding.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Climbing onion

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Burro's tail
Burro's tail
Burro's tail (Sedum burrito) is a flowering succulent species native to Honduras and southern Mexico. Burro's tail is valued as an ornamental houseplant and often grown in hanging baskets. This species is considered rare in nature as it only grows in a few small geographical regions. Burro's tail grows best in full-sunlight conditions.
Blue vervain
Blue vervain
This wildflower grows in prairies across the US and Canada. It attracts bees, birds, and butterflies, and provides a home for Common Buckeye caterpillars. Blue vervain has been used in traditional medicines in a variety of cultures but has been found by modern science to have negative effects on the human body under some conditions.
Bells of Ireland
Bells of Ireland
A hardy annual, bells of Ireland grow tiny white flowers embedded in pretty green calyxes. These self-seeding flowers have a pretty fragrance and can be used for cut flowers. They can be companion planted behind tulips for a pretty mix of flowers.
American sycamore
American sycamore
When you think of a american sycamore, size may be the first thing to come to mind. This deciduous tree can reach heights of 23 to 30 m tall and has leaves that resemble those of a maple tree. The trunk of the american sycamore is larger than that of any other native tree, with mature trees having recorded diameters up to 4.5 m.
American hornbeam
American hornbeam
American hornbeam is a small tree that can reach heights of 10 to 15 m. It often does not grow straight, instead it usually has a crooked trunk. The wood from the american hornbeam is most often used in tool handles and levers due to its heavy, hard, and strong qualities.
Alexanders
Alexanders
Alexanders (Smyrnium olusatrum), also known as horse parsley, is a biennial flowering plant native to the Mediterranean, but also found farther north. It was cultivated as an edible plant from ancient times and was especially popular during the rule of Alexander the Great. Romans gave it its common name after Alexandria.
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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Climbing onion
Climbing onion
Climbing onion
Climbing onion
Climbing onion
Bowiea volubilis
Also known as: Zulu potato
Planting Time
Planting Time
Late summer, Fall
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Care Guide for Climbing onion

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Questions About Climbing onion

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Watering Watering Watering
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Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water Climbing onion too much/too little?
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How often should I water my Climbing onion?
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Should I adjust the watering frequency according to different seasons or climate for my Climbing onion?
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What should I look for when planting my Climbing onion indoors or outdoors?
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Key Facts About Climbing onion

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Attributes of Climbing onion

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent, Herb
Planting Time
Late summer, Fall
Bloom Time
Spring
Harvest Time
Late summer
Plant Height
61 cm
Spread
10 cm to 20 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
1 cm to 1.6 cm
Flower Color
White
Green
Fruit Color
Brown
Stem Color
Green
Dormancy
Summer dormancy
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
Growth Season
Spring
Growth Rate
Moderate
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Scientific Classification of Climbing onion

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Common Pests & Diseases About Climbing onion

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Common issues for Climbing onion based on 10 million real cases
Leaf rot
Leaf rot is a fungal disease that affects the Climbing onion. This disease primarily causes browning and decomposition of the leaf tissues, leading to reduced plant vigor and potential plant death if untreated.
Learn More About the Leaf rot more
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Learn More About the Underwatering more
Stem rot
Stem rot Stem rot Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water. For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Learn More About the Stem rot more
Fruit Spot
Fruit Spot Fruit Spot Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Solutions: Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot. Improve air circulation and drainage Fertilize as needed Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Learn More About the Fruit Spot more
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Leaf rot
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Leaf rot Disease on Climbing onion?
What is Leaf rot Disease on Climbing onion?
Leaf rot is a fungal disease that affects the Climbing onion. This disease primarily causes browning and decomposition of the leaf tissues, leading to reduced plant vigor and potential plant death if untreated.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Leaf rot in Climbing onion manifests as browning and softening of leaves leading to decay. It also hampers growth and flowering. If left unchecked, the disease may progress to the stem, causing wilting and eventual death.
What Causes Leaf rot Disease on Climbing onion?
What Causes Leaf rot Disease on Climbing onion?
1
Fungi
Leaf rot is typically caused by a variety of fungi, such as Phytophthora and Pythium. These fungi thrive in warm, moist conditions where there is plenty of organic material.
2
Environmental conditions
Overly wet soil, poor drainage, and crowding of plants can create an environment conducive to fungal growth and disease development.
How to Treat Leaf rot Disease on Climbing onion?
How to Treat Leaf rot Disease on Climbing onion?
1
Non pesticide
Proper water management: Avoid overwatering and ensure the plant is in well-drained soil to prevent waterlog which favors fungal growth.

Removal of infected parts: Prune and dispose of infected parts of the plant. Clean tools after pruning to avoid spreading the infection.
2
Pesticide
Fungicide treatment: Apply fungicides that are specific to the fungi causing the disease. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions for application.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Stem rot
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Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Stem rot is a serious disease and can affect many different types of plants. it can be particularly prevalent when the temperature of the soil is over 16 ℃ and there's a lot of moisture in the soil. This could be from unusually heavy rainfalls or too much irrigation. Once stem rot sets in, it's very difficult to get rid of the disease and most affected plants will have to be discarded. This is especially the case for vegetables, herbs, and other herbaceous plants that have soft stems. This is why it's important to ensure that the soil used for growing these plants is well-drained and that overwatering is avoided. Using good cultural practices also help in curbing these types of fungal diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plants that have been affected by stem rot will first display a yellowing of the lower leaves. This is followed by obvious wilting and stunted growth.
If the stem of the affected plant is examined closely, there will be some dark discolorations starting near the base and moving upward. If the roots of affected plants are examined, they will appear dark and mushy instead of white and healthy-looking. Eventually, the entire plant will wilt and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Stem rot is caused by a variety of soil-borne fungus pathogens. The type of fungus depends on the species of plant that is affected. Two fungi responsible for stem rot are Rhizoctonia and Fusarium. These fungal pathogens live in soil and migrate to the plant when conditions are optimum. This includes warm, humid weather and excessive soil moisture. Commonly, vegetable seedlings are affected by these fungi.
Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is another fungus that causes stem rot in plants. This fungus has a host range of over 350 different species of plants. Plants most susceptible to this fungus include many vegetable varieties such as cucumbers, beans, cilantro, carrots, cabbage, melons, lettuce, peas, onions, tomatoes, pumpkins, and squash. This fungus can produce different symptoms in different species. In some cases, the fungus causes irregular spots on stems and other plant material that appear water-soaked. On other plant species, the fungus appears as dry lesions that grow and girdle the stem of the plant.
The third type of fungus that causes stem rot is Phytophthora capsici. Plants that belong to the cucumber family are most susceptible to this fungal infection. This fungus manifests as water-soaked lesions on the stems that then turn brown and girdle the stem.
All of these fungal pathogens are transmitted to the plant by water splashing from the soil up onto the plant. That's because the fungal spores live in the soil where they wait for the right conditions to infect the plants.
Solutions
Solutions
If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do.
  1. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible.
  2. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots.
  3. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized.
  4. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium.
  5. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water.
For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Prevention
Prevention
For outdoor gardens:
  1. Raking the garden thoroughly in the springtime will help to cut down on pathogens that may be living in the soil.
  2. Using a copper fungicide on plants in the springtime will cut down on fungal growth and prevent the spread of infection.
  3. Placing a heavy layer of mulch on top of the soil will also prevent pathogens from splashing up onto the stems of plants.
  4. Place plants at the recommended spacing to encourage better air flow between them.
  5. Water plants at the base instead of overhead to prevent excessive moisture on foliage.
For indoor plants:
  1. Avoid overwatering houseplants and ensure the roots do not sit in water.
  2. Make sure that indoor plants receive adequate air circulation and light.
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Fruit Spot
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Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Overview
Overview
If there are brown or black spots on the unripened fruits of plants, there is a good chance that fruit Spot could be to blame. This is an informal term used to describe several types of diseases that all cause these same symptoms: unattractive spots on fruits and vegetables.
There are a few different culprits behind fruit Spot, including bacterial spot, bacterial speck, and other related diseases (like early blight). Here are some symptoms and potential solutions to consider.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of fruit Spot vary depending on which type of plant is affected as well as by which specific pathogen is to blame. Just about every type of plant can be affected by fruit Spot, including tomatoes, pears, plums, onions, strawberries, celery, peaches, and more.
Here are some examples of potential symptoms:
Small Fruit Spot
Small spots are most commonly associated with bacterial speck.
  • Spots may appear on fruits as well as leaves and other aboveground areas of the plant
  • Small black specks appear on infected fruits (spots are less than 1/16” in diameter)
  • Spots are raised with distinct margins, developing into sunken pits as the fruit matures
  • Fruit tissue near the spot stays green longer than the rest of the fruit
  • Spots are dark brown to black in color, with nearby spots often growing together
Large Fruit Spot
Large spots are often seen on plants suffering from bacterial spot, early blight, and related diseases.
  • Spots are large, sometimes larger than 1.3 cm
  • Some spots may look like targets with a brown to greyish coloration
  • Older spots are black and raised with lobed borders
  • Spots are superficial only, not penetrating into the seed cavity
  • Spots may turn into sunken pits, turning into craters as they get older
  • The skin of the fruit can be cracked and produce a water-soaked border
  • Some spots may ooze a gelatinous substance
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are a few culprits behind the fruit Spot. These depend on the pathogen as well as the type of plant. Bacterial speck and bacterial spot are both common diseases that can affect tomatoes, ground cherries, and other plants.
Bacterial speck is caused by Pseudomonas syringae. First discovered in the United States in 1933, it is most common in tomatoes and nearby weeds but can affect other kinds of plants and their fruits, too. It is more prevalent in low temperatures (less than 24 ℃) and high moisture.
Bacterial spot is caused by Xanthomonas campestris pv. Vesicatoria. First discovered in Texas in 1912, this disease is more common in warm weather and conditions of high moisture.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot.
  • Improve air circulation and drainage
  • Fertilize as needed
  • Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Prevention
Prevention
There are several ways to prevent both types of fruit Spot from affecting yields and harvests:
  • Rotate crops - do not plant the same kind of plant in the same spot each year, instead switching out locations every two to three years
  • Use disease-free seeds and transplants - using a hot water treatment to sterilize seeds before planting can also be effective
  • Irrigate early in the day to give plants time to dry off before nightfall
  • Avoid working around plants when they are wet
  • Control weeds
  • Remove debris or plow it under at the end of the growing season
  • Fertilize with higher amounts of nitrogen and use less calcium
  • Plant resistant cultivars when available
  • Do not clip plants when transplanting
  • Dispose of affected plant parts immediately (do not compost)
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distribution

Distribution of Climbing onion

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Habitat of Climbing onion

Thicket, grassland, savanna, evergreen bushland, woodland
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Climbing onion

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
care_scenes

More Info on Climbing Onion Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
Common Pests & Diseases
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Leaf rot
Leaf rot is a fungal disease that affects the Climbing onion. This disease primarily causes browning and decomposition of the leaf tissues, leading to reduced plant vigor and potential plant death if untreated.
 detail
Leaf blight
Leaf blight, primarily caused by fungal pathogens, adversely affects the growth of Climbing onion, causing yellowing and browning of leaves, eventually leading to plant's death if left untreated. The disease is highly infectious and moderately lethal.
 detail
Soft Rot
Soft Rot is a bacterial disease affecting Climbing onion, leading to discolored, water-soaked, and rotten tissues. This infection largely reduces plant growth and aerial root development, often resulting in plant death if untreated.
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Underwatering dry
Underwatering is a common issue in Climbing onion cultivation, leading to water-stress and plant wilting. It's indicated by stunted growth, dry soil, and leaf drooping. Being non-infectious and non-lethal, its impact can be reversed with suitable water management.
 detail
stem brown spot
Brown spot' is a fungal disease that adversely affects Climbing onion. It manifests as dark brown or black spots on leaves, stunting growth. Without treatment, it can cause significant damage or even plant death.
 detail
Wilting
Wilting refers to the loss of rigidity in Climbing onion's parts, often a symptom of water shortage or a disease attack affecting its vascular system. This condition may lead to reduced plant growth or death if not addressed timely.
 detail
Plant dried up
The disease 'Plant dried up' leads to desiccation and potentially death of the Climbing onion. It is primarily caused by poor watering practices, high temperatures, or pathogenic infections, severely impacting the plant's photosynthesis and growth.
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Plants Related to Climbing onion

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Lighting
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Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
The climbing onion flourishes best under extensive exposure to sun rays and can also withstand periods of moderate light. Its light demand mirrors its original habitational circumstances where it thrived under abundant illumination. Lack or excess of sun can harm its growth, causing poor health or coloration.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Climbing onion is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your climbing onion may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Slower or no new growth
Climbing onion enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Climbing onion require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
The climbing onion is a climber native to the arid regions of South Africa where the temperatures range from 20 to 38 ℃ (68 to 100.4 ℉) during the growing season. This plant prefers warm temperatures and needs to be kept away from frost. In winter, it is essential to decrease watering and reduce temperatures to 5 to 15 ℃ (41 to 59 ℉) to promote dormancy and prepare for the growing season.
Regional wintering strategies
Winter is the growing season for Climbing onion, so it is important to maintain temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} for optimal growth. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it is advisable to bring the plant indoors to a well-lit area. Increase watering when the temperature is higher and reduce watering when it approaches {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. If overwintering the plant outdoors, it should be placed in a sheltered area with ample sunlight. Consider setting up a temporary greenhouse for protection if the outdoor temperature is consistently low and keep the plant adequately moist.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in Climbing onion
Climbing onion is not tolerant of extremely cold temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is between {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} and {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves will exhibit water-soaked necrosis and wilting. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the leaves will significantly wilt and eventually fall off.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment or set up a makeshift greenhouse for cold protection. When placing the plant indoors, choose a location near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. When using a makeshift greenhouse, pay attention to ventilation to avoid plant decay due to poor airflow.
Symptoms of High Temperature in Climbing onion
During summer, Climbing onion should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant will enter a dormant state, and it becomes more prone to rot in high humidity conditions.
Solutions
Remove the dry and rotten parts. Move the plant to a partially shaded area, providing protection from direct sunlight during midday and afternoon. Stop watering the plant until the weather becomes cooler.
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