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Nun's-hood orchid
Nun's-hood orchid
Nun's-hood orchid
Nun's-hood orchid
Nun's-hood orchid
Phaius tankervilleae
Also known as : Swamp lily, Nun's orchid, Lady tankerville's swamp orchid, Lady tankerville
Water
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Partial sun
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care guide

Care Guide for Nun's-hood orchid

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Watering Care
Watering Care
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
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Soil Care
Soil Care
Moderately acidic, Slightly acidic
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Partial sun, Full sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
Ideal Temperature
Ideal Temperature
9 to 11
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Nun's-hood orchid
Water
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Partial sun
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
Harvest Time
Harvest Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer
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Questions About Nun's-hood orchid

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Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Nun's-hood orchid?
The manner in which you water the Nun's-hood orchid will depend somewhat on whether or not your plant is in an active growth phase. If so, you should apply water to your plant’s soil and, if the weather is warm, perform occasional overhead watering to allow the plant to absorb moisture through its leaves. By contrast, in winter, and when the weather is cool or wet generally, you should stick to watering the soil directly rather than including overhead watering as well. You’ll know your Nun's-hood orchid needs more water if its roots and leaves become thin and dry or show discoloration. Nun's-hood orchid receives too much water will look mushy and limp. You should grow your Nun's-hood orchid in a pot and ensure that the potting mix you use has fantastic drainage. During the growing season, you’ll need to water this plant multiple times per week. However, each watering should drain quickly through the growing medium to prevent any standing water. The amount of water you give will change based on the size of the pot you use. Generally, pots that are a bit larger will need water less frequently, while smaller pots will have a slightly more frequent watering schedule. Rainwater and distilled water are the best kinds of water to use for this plant, and it is best if the water you use matches the temperature of the air as closely as possible.
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What should I do if I water my Nun's-hood orchid too much or too little?
Allowing your Nun's-hood orchid to sit in soil that remains too moist for too long is one of the most common ways to kill this plant. While these plants need water frequently during active growth, they also need to live in a growing medium that drains water rapidly. When this plant experiences overwatering, it will become mushy and develop root rot. If that occurs, you should be prepared to use a pair of sterile pruning shears to cut out any roots that show signs of rot. After doing that, you should then repot your Nun's-hood orchid, ensuring that the container allows for drainage and that you fill the container with a fast-draining potting mix. However, Nun's-hood orchid doesn’t typically respond that well to excessive repotting, so it is crucial to get your watering rate right. Underwatered Nun's-hood orchid will begin to shrivel and feel dry to the touch. If this occurs, it is likely because the soil is drying out faster than you expected, which means you should increase your watering frequency.
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How often should I water my Nun's-hood orchid?
During the active growth stage, which spans the spring and summer months, you should plan to water your Nun's-hood orchid about once or twice per week while increasing that rate to three times per week or more in the case of long periods of hot and dry weather. In the winter, you will also need to water your Nun's-hood orchid, but not nearly as much. A watering frequency of two to three times per month should be enough to keep your Nun's-hood orchid alive during the coldest months. However, if you keep your Nun's-hood orchid indoors during winter, you should account for the fact that indoor growing locations can cause the soil to dry quicker than usual, which may mean you need to increase the number of monthly waterings. You can use the fall as a time to gradually reduce your watering frequency from the summer rate of multiple times per week down to your reduced winter watering schedule.
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What should I consider when watering my Nun's-hood orchid in different seasons and growth periods?
There are two important growth phases that you should consider when planning the watering schedule for your Nun's-hood orchid. The first of those periods is the active growth period, which happens in spring and summer, and which calls for watering this plant multiple times per week. The second important growth period is the rest period that the Nun's-hood orchid should experience for about two to three months each year during winter. During that time, your plant will need far less water and fertilization than normal. Water about once or twice per month during this time. During the fall, you should begin to gradually reduce your watering frequency from multiple times per week all the way down to the once or twice per month rate that is appropriate for winter.
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How should I water my Nun's-hood orchid differently if I grow it indoors?
The Nun's-hood orchid requires a growing environment that is relatively humid. Unfortunately, most indoor growing locations will lack the level of air moisture that this plant prefers. This causes the plant and its soil to dry out more quickly than it would when growing outdoors. To combat this effect, you may want to include a humidifier in the room where you grow your Nun's-hood orchid. You may also need to water it a bit more frequently as well. However, while Nun's-hood orchids do prefer humidity, they also require adequate air circulation as well, to prevent excessive moisture build-ups and the diseases that can result. Consider including a fan in the room where you grow this plant as well to ensure proper air circulation remains present.
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Key Facts About Nun's-hood orchid

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Attributes of Nun's-hood orchid

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer, Late winter
Harvest Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer
Plant Height
60 cm to 2 m
Spread
90 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Yellow
Brown
Flower Size
10 cm to 13 cm
Flower Color
Red
White
Purple
Yellow
Brown
Orange
Fruit Color
Green
Stem Color
Green
Leaf type
Evergreen, Semi-evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃

Symbolism

Scientific Classification of Nun's-hood orchid

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Common Pests & Diseases About Nun's-hood orchid

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Common issues for Nun's-hood orchid based on 10 million real cases
Flower wilting
Flower wilting is a common disease in Nun's-hood orchid, affecting both bloom and overall health. It usually originates from water stress, pathogens, or unsuitable conditions, resulting in wilting patterns on leaves and blossoms, and in severe cases, plant death.
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Petal blight
Petal blight Petal blight
Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Yellow spot
Yellow spot Yellow spot
Yellow spot
Leaf spot can show up as yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Diseases Fungicides can prevent the transmission of spores, but they may not treat the established infection. The first step is removing and disposing of all infected plant parts. Then apply recommended chemicals. For bacterial infections, apply a spray containing copper or streptomycin. For fungal infections, consult the local cooperative extension for recommendations on which fungicides will work best. Nutrient deficiency Apply a liquid fertilizer via foliar application to fix the deficiency quickly. Follow label directions regarding dosing instructions and application notes, such as not using before the rain or when temperatures are out of the recommended range. Incorrect watering Determine the water requirements for your specific plant, and follow accordingly. Some plants like consistently moist soil, and others like the soil to dry out slightly before being watered. Pests Thoroughly apply an insecticidal soap, an organic product like neem oil, or an appropriate chemical insecticide to the plant.
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Flower wilting
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Flower wilting Disease on Nun's-hood orchid?
What is Flower wilting Disease on Nun's-hood orchid?
Flower wilting is a common disease in Nun's-hood orchid, affecting both bloom and overall health. It usually originates from water stress, pathogens, or unsuitable conditions, resulting in wilting patterns on leaves and blossoms, and in severe cases, plant death.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The disease mainly manifests itself in the wilting and yellowing of leaves and blossoms. The plant experiences stunted growth and the stems may become soft. Ultimately, the blooms and leaves may drop prematurely.
What Causes Flower wilting Disease on Nun's-hood orchid?
What Causes Flower wilting Disease on Nun's-hood orchid?
1
Water stress
Overwatering or underwatering can stress Nun's-hood orchid, destabilizing its natural processes and causing wilt.
2
Pathogens
Various fungi and bacteria can cause wilting by affecting the plant's water transport system.
3
Unsuitable conditions
Nun's-hood orchid prefers certain temperature and light conditions. Extreme variations can cause stress, leading to wilt.
How to Treat Flower wilting Disease on Nun's-hood orchid?
How to Treat Flower wilting Disease on Nun's-hood orchid?
1
Non pesticide
Proper watering: Ensure the plant receives appropriate watering, taking seasonal variations into account.

Optimal conditions: Maintain optimal light and temperature conditions as Nun's-hood orchid prefers.
2
Pesticide
Fungicide treatment: Apply a suitable fungicide if a fungal pathogen is identified.

Bactericide application: Use a safe bactericide for bacterial-infected plants.
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Wilting after blooming
plant poor
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
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Petal blight
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Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Petal blight, sometimes called flower blight, is a fungal disease that only affects the blooms of some ornamental flowering plants. As the infection progresses, it destroys the flower, yet it never damages the vegetative or green parts of the plant.
When flowers are infected, the symptoms look similar to Botrytis blight, but Botrytis also infects dead or dormant vegetative tissue.
The disease was first discovered in Japanese plants in 1919 and in the US in the late 1930s. Presently it is also found in New Zealand, Australia, and parts of Europe. Unfortunately, no plants have high resistance to petal blight, but specific cultivars are more susceptible than others, particularly species with double blooms.
Petal blight infection rates are high when temperatures are mild to warm (optimum temperatures are 15 to 21 ℃) and the weather is misty or rainy.
Overall, petal blight is an aesthetic problem that ruins blossoms. The disease is not harmful to the long-term health of the plant.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The severity of the symptoms varies, depending upon the species of plant infected. Signs of petal blight are commonly seen on the blooms just after they open.
  • Pallid spots on colored petals.
  • Brown spots on white petals.
  • Browning around the petal edges.
  • Small spots look water-soaked.
  • Spots rapidly enlarge and merge.
  • Flowers become limp.
  • The entire flower turns light brown, but does not crumble.
  • Flowers become slimy at first and then take on a leathery texture.
  • A ring of white or gray mycelium can be seen at the base of the petals.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Petal blight is caused by several different fungi, with each type infecting specific plants. Ovulinia azalea infects azaleas species and cultivars, and rhododendrons. Ciborinia camelliae infects camellia cultivars.
Shortly after blooming, the fungus infects the base of the flowers by the calyx. The fungus produces cell wall-degrading enzymes that destroy flowers within a couple of days. When the flowers fall to the ground, the fungus' hard fruiting bodies fall to the soil as well, overwintering until the following spring.
When temperatures hit the optimum range the following season, spores are transmitted by insects or can spread on wind currents up to about 12 miles. Once in the soil, the pathogen can be active for three to five years.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Yellow spot
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Yellow spot
Leaf spot can show up as yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Overview
Overview
Yellow spot is a common condition that affects all types of plants -- flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, herbs, and vegetable plants -- worldwide. Yellow spots may appear because of dozens of potential causes and occur in various environmental and climatic conditions, but fortunately, most are easy to address. The most common causes of yellow spots include diseases, nutrient deficiency, watering problems, and pests.
In most cases, yellow spots can be treated without permanent damage to the plant. However, in some fungal disease cases, nothing can be done to treat the disease after infection, and the plant will ultimately perish from the disease.
Due to this, the most critical aspect of addressing yellow spots on plants is correctly determining the cause.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms occur on varying parts of the plant, depending upon the cause. Smaller spots tend to be indicative of younger infections or newly developing problems.
  • Small yellow spots appear on leaves
  • Spots can occur on the lower or upper leaf surfaces, or both
  • Raised, rounded, or sunken spots with fringed or smooth edges
  • Spots may grow together, causing leaves to become totally discolored
  • Stunted growth
  • Premature leaf drop
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The vast majority of yellow spot diseases are caused by fungal pathogens. However, there are some situations in which bacteria, environmental conditions, or other issues may be blamed.
Diseases are typically host-specific, so they may only affect plants within the same family. That said, just about every single species of plant is vulnerable to at least one disease that causes yellow spot. The most common problems are leaf blight, leaf septoria, powdery mildew, and downy mildew, to name a few.
All plants need specific nutrients from the soil to survive. When these nutrients become depleted or unavailable for plant uptake due to particular conditions, deficiencies occur, and yellow spots are seen.
  • Nitrogen is an integral component of chlorophyll.
  • Iron is needed in the enzymes that make chlorophyll.
Yellow spots may also appear because of incorrect watering, mainly underwatering, or infestations of sap-sucking pests such as aphids.
  • Too little water inhibits photosynthesis. Too much water pushes oxygen out of the soil and the roots cannot take in nutrients or even water from the soil.
  • Insect problems can cause yellow spots directly by damaging leaf tissue when feeding, or they may introduce pathogens.
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weed

Weed Control About Nun's-hood orchid

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Weeds
On the Hawaiian Islands within the noncontiguous United States, nun's-hood orchid is considered an invasive threat. It is also considered by some to be invasive in Jamaica. This species' invasive potential is high because it reproduces vegetatively, meaning it can engage in asexual reproduction. It can also survive and tolerate shady growth conditions. Its seeds can be dispersed by animals and people. In Hawaii it is thought to have escaped ornamental cultivation before becoming invasive. This species is still planted ornamentally in some countries. When planting nun's-hood orchid, care should be taken to assure it does not escape its planted area.
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distribution

Distribution of Nun's-hood orchid

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Habitat of Nun's-hood orchid

Swampy forest, grassland
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Nun's-hood orchid

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Nun's-hood Orchid Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
Common Pests & Diseases
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Lighting
Partial sun
The nun's-hood orchid embraces a habitat that is fairly illuminated with sun, yet enjoys slight shelter from intense light. The sun's rays, being too harsh, might scorch its foliage. On the other hand, inadequate light exposure could hinder its healthy growth. Its sun requirement may vary across different growth stages.
Best Sunlight Practices
Transplant
2-3 feet
The best time to transplant nun's-hood orchid is during its dormancy season, or in other words, seasons 2-3. Transplanting when the plant is not actively growing ensures it can quickly establish in its new location. Remember, nun's-hood orchid thrives in locations with diffused light and rich, well-drained soil. Equipping yourself with this knowledge will make your transplanting venture a success.
Transplant Techniques
Temperature
0 - 43 ℃
Nun's-hood orchid is native to tropical environments with temperature requirements ranging from 68 to 100.4 °F (20 to 38℃). It prefers warmth, tolerating highest up to 100.4°F (38°C). Seasonal adjustments may be required to maintain optimum temperature.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Flower wilting
Flower wilting is a common disease in Nun's-hood orchid, affecting both bloom and overall health. It usually originates from water stress, pathogens, or unsuitable conditions, resulting in wilting patterns on leaves and blossoms, and in severe cases, plant death.
Read More
Leaf wrinkling
Leaf wrinkling is a common disease affecting Nun's-hood orchid, resulting in foliage damage that may limit its vegetative growth and flowering. The disease can significantly impact the plant's health if not managed promptly.
Read More
Leaf wilting
Leaf wilting is a common plant disease that adversely impacts the vigor and health of the Nun's-hood orchid. Pathogens, environmental mismatches, and nutrient deficiencies typically lead to this condition, causing noticeable wilting and discoloration of leaves, and if unchecked, may result in the death of the plant.
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Flower withering
Flower withering is a disease detrimental to the health of Nun's-hood orchid. It can lead to poor floral development, potential loss of the plant, and hinder reproduction. This disease is caused by a variety of factors, mainly fungal pathogens and environmental conditions.
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Aerial root
Aerial root disease primarily affects the root system of Nun's-hood orchid, leading to wilting leaves and reduced bloom. It spreads quickly across the plant network, impacting the overall health and longevity of the plant.
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Root withering
Root withering is a progressive plant disease that impairs the growth and healthy lifecycle of Nun's-hood orchid by weakening the root structure. Often perpetuated by fungal infections or improper care, the disease results in stunted growth and eventually plant death if left untreated.
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Leaf blotch
Leaf blotch is a fungal infection afflicting Nun's-hood orchid, resulting in irregular brownish-black patches on leaf surfaces. This reduces photosynthetic ability, causes stunted growth, and leads to overall poor health and eventual death if untreated.
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Flower stem withering
Flower stem withering is a disease affecting Nun's-hood orchid severely, leading to premature drooping and eventual death of the plant. The malady primarily caused by excessive moisture and fungal pathogens, directly influences the plant's growth and aesthetic appeal.
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White blotch
White blotch is a fungal disease impacting Nun's-hood orchid. It presents as a snowy white, fluffy growth on leaves, leading to discoloration, wilting, and ultimately plant vitality loss. It's caused by environmental stress and certain fungi.
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Root wrinkling
Root Wrinkling is a pathogenic disease that affects Nun's-hood orchid, leading to shrinkage and discoloration of its roots. The disease, caused primarily by improper care, can impact the plant's growth and ability to absorb nutrients effectively.
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Leaf yellowing
Leaf yellowing in Nun's-hood orchid pertains to a general symptom indicating the plant's poor health, resulting from various stressors such as nutrient deficiency, under-watering, or infection. It can lead to reduced vigor, impaired photosynthesis and, eventually, plant death in severe cases.
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Feng shui direction
North
The nun's-hood orchid exudes an aura of tranquility and balance, making it particularly compatible with the North facing direction. In Feng Shui, North signifies water and career growth, which resonates well with the nun's-hood orchid's symbolism of spiritual growth and perseverance. This compatibility, however, can vary as Feng Shui is highly subjective and dependent on an array of variables.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Nun's-hood orchid

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Life plant
Life plant
Life plant is a diminutive, tropical perennial herb noted for its rapid movement in response to touch or shock. It boasts small yellow flowers and pinnate leaves that dramatically fold together when disturbed, an adaptation possibly for deterring herbivores or protecting itself from harsh elements. Thriving in warm and humid climates, it often favors well-drained soils and can be found carpeting forest floors.
Lemon geranium
Lemon geranium
Also known as lemon geranium, this plant is a popular choice for gardens and indoor arrangements with its citrusy scent. Its essential oils are used in perfumes and soaps as well. Be cautious when handling this plant as it can cause skin irritations for some people.
Lady of the night orchid
Lady of the night orchid
Has stems and false bulbs. The pseudobulb is an elongated cylindrical shape with a length of 3 to 15 cm. Only one leaf is attached to the tip of the pseudobulb, and it has a linear needle shape. The length is 15 to 30 cm, but the leaf width is only 2 to 3 cm, thick and hard. The surface is recessed in a groove shape. The flowers bloom in the fall, and 1-6 pieces are placed on the flower stem about 20 cm from the tip of the false bulb. The flower is about 8 cm in diameter. The sepals and side petals are linear, tapering, gently bent and yellowish green. The lip is white, the base wraps around the medullary column and rolls up into a cylinder, then suddenly expands to a heart shape, and the tip is slightly sharp. Flowers have a fragrance, especially at night.
Labrador violet
Labrador violet
Labrador violet (Viola labradorica) bursts forth in a profusion of beautiful flowers in springtime. After the insects pollinate the blossoms, it produces an oblong pod full of lots of seeds. Remove these pods before they open, put them in a bag, and when the pod dries, it will release its seeds. Place these seeds in a jar, and you can grow your own labrador violet.
Kimberley queen fern
Kimberley queen fern
Kimberley queen fern (Nephrolepis obliterata) is a tropical fern with beautiful dark green, sword-shaped fronds. It can be grown in the ground in warm climates but cannot tolerate cold temperatures. Thrives in full shade or dappled sunlight. It cannot tolerate full sun. When grown indoors, it acts as a natural air purifier. Fertilize twice a year and keep soil consistently moist but not wet.
Jerusalem thorn
Jerusalem thorn
Jerusalem thorn is a deciduous shrub native to the Mediterranean region. In the Bible, it is mentioned as the plant from which the crown of thorns was made that was placed on Jesus' head prior to his crucifixion. In the garden, it is often used as a hedge or border plant due to its thorny branches, which can help to deter animals and intruders. It is also a popular choice for xeriscaping, or landscaping in dry regions, as it is drought-tolerant and can thrive in poor soil conditions.
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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Nun's-hood orchid
Nun's-hood orchid
Nun's-hood orchid
Nun's-hood orchid
Nun's-hood orchid
Phaius tankervilleae
Also known as: Swamp lily, Nun's orchid, Lady tankerville's swamp orchid, Lady tankerville
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Questions About Nun's-hood orchid

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Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
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Key Facts About Nun's-hood orchid

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Attributes of Nun's-hood orchid

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer, Late winter
Harvest Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer
Plant Height
60 cm to 2 m
Spread
90 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Yellow
Brown
Flower Size
10 cm to 13 cm
Flower Color
Red
White
Purple
Yellow
Brown
Orange
Fruit Color
Green
Stem Color
Green
Leaf type
Evergreen, Semi-evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
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Scientific Classification of Nun's-hood orchid

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Nun's-hood orchid

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Common issues for Nun's-hood orchid based on 10 million real cases
Flower wilting
Flower wilting is a common disease in Nun's-hood orchid, affecting both bloom and overall health. It usually originates from water stress, pathogens, or unsuitable conditions, resulting in wilting patterns on leaves and blossoms, and in severe cases, plant death.
Learn More About the Flower wilting more
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
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Petal blight
Petal blight Petal blight Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
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Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More About the Leaf beetles more
Yellow spot
Yellow spot Yellow spot Yellow spot
Leaf spot can show up as yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Diseases Fungicides can prevent the transmission of spores, but they may not treat the established infection. The first step is removing and disposing of all infected plant parts. Then apply recommended chemicals. For bacterial infections, apply a spray containing copper or streptomycin. For fungal infections, consult the local cooperative extension for recommendations on which fungicides will work best. Nutrient deficiency Apply a liquid fertilizer via foliar application to fix the deficiency quickly. Follow label directions regarding dosing instructions and application notes, such as not using before the rain or when temperatures are out of the recommended range. Incorrect watering Determine the water requirements for your specific plant, and follow accordingly. Some plants like consistently moist soil, and others like the soil to dry out slightly before being watered. Pests Thoroughly apply an insecticidal soap, an organic product like neem oil, or an appropriate chemical insecticide to the plant.
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Flower wilting
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Flower wilting Disease on Nun's-hood orchid?
What is Flower wilting Disease on Nun's-hood orchid?
Flower wilting is a common disease in Nun's-hood orchid, affecting both bloom and overall health. It usually originates from water stress, pathogens, or unsuitable conditions, resulting in wilting patterns on leaves and blossoms, and in severe cases, plant death.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The disease mainly manifests itself in the wilting and yellowing of leaves and blossoms. The plant experiences stunted growth and the stems may become soft. Ultimately, the blooms and leaves may drop prematurely.
What Causes Flower wilting Disease on Nun's-hood orchid?
What Causes Flower wilting Disease on Nun's-hood orchid?
1
Water stress
Overwatering or underwatering can stress Nun's-hood orchid, destabilizing its natural processes and causing wilt.
2
Pathogens
Various fungi and bacteria can cause wilting by affecting the plant's water transport system.
3
Unsuitable conditions
Nun's-hood orchid prefers certain temperature and light conditions. Extreme variations can cause stress, leading to wilt.
How to Treat Flower wilting Disease on Nun's-hood orchid?
How to Treat Flower wilting Disease on Nun's-hood orchid?
1
Non pesticide
Proper watering: Ensure the plant receives appropriate watering, taking seasonal variations into account.

Optimal conditions: Maintain optimal light and temperature conditions as Nun's-hood orchid prefers.
2
Pesticide
Fungicide treatment: Apply a suitable fungicide if a fungal pathogen is identified.

Bactericide application: Use a safe bactericide for bacterial-infected plants.
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Wilting after blooming
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
  • Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
  • Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
  • Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
  • Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
  • Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
  • One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Petal blight
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Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Petal blight, sometimes called flower blight, is a fungal disease that only affects the blooms of some ornamental flowering plants. As the infection progresses, it destroys the flower, yet it never damages the vegetative or green parts of the plant.
When flowers are infected, the symptoms look similar to Botrytis blight, but Botrytis also infects dead or dormant vegetative tissue.
The disease was first discovered in Japanese plants in 1919 and in the US in the late 1930s. Presently it is also found in New Zealand, Australia, and parts of Europe. Unfortunately, no plants have high resistance to petal blight, but specific cultivars are more susceptible than others, particularly species with double blooms.
Petal blight infection rates are high when temperatures are mild to warm (optimum temperatures are 15 to 21 ℃) and the weather is misty or rainy.
Overall, petal blight is an aesthetic problem that ruins blossoms. The disease is not harmful to the long-term health of the plant.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The severity of the symptoms varies, depending upon the species of plant infected. Signs of petal blight are commonly seen on the blooms just after they open.
  • Pallid spots on colored petals.
  • Brown spots on white petals.
  • Browning around the petal edges.
  • Small spots look water-soaked.
  • Spots rapidly enlarge and merge.
  • Flowers become limp.
  • The entire flower turns light brown, but does not crumble.
  • Flowers become slimy at first and then take on a leathery texture.
  • A ring of white or gray mycelium can be seen at the base of the petals.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Petal blight is caused by several different fungi, with each type infecting specific plants. Ovulinia azalea infects azaleas species and cultivars, and rhododendrons. Ciborinia camelliae infects camellia cultivars.
Shortly after blooming, the fungus infects the base of the flowers by the calyx. The fungus produces cell wall-degrading enzymes that destroy flowers within a couple of days. When the flowers fall to the ground, the fungus' hard fruiting bodies fall to the soil as well, overwintering until the following spring.
When temperatures hit the optimum range the following season, spores are transmitted by insects or can spread on wind currents up to about 12 miles. Once in the soil, the pathogen can be active for three to five years.
Solutions
Solutions
Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Apply a preventative dose of fungicide as soon as blooms start to show color on the plant. The preventative can be applied as a soil drench or directly to the flowers on the plant.
  • Avoid overhead watering during blooming.
  • Remove any leaf litter and dead flowers at the end of the season.
  • Cover the ground under infected plants with 4” of fresh organic mulch before winter, taking care not to disturb the infected soil.
  • Buy bare-root specimens when available.
  • When potted plants are purchased, remove the top layer of potting soil and replace it with fresh mulch.
  • Plant cultivars that bloom early in the season before the temperatures get high enough for petal blight pathogens to be spreading.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Yellow spot
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Yellow spot
Leaf spot can show up as yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Overview
Overview
Yellow spot is a common condition that affects all types of plants -- flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, herbs, and vegetable plants -- worldwide. Yellow spots may appear because of dozens of potential causes and occur in various environmental and climatic conditions, but fortunately, most are easy to address. The most common causes of yellow spots include diseases, nutrient deficiency, watering problems, and pests.
In most cases, yellow spots can be treated without permanent damage to the plant. However, in some fungal disease cases, nothing can be done to treat the disease after infection, and the plant will ultimately perish from the disease.
Due to this, the most critical aspect of addressing yellow spots on plants is correctly determining the cause.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms occur on varying parts of the plant, depending upon the cause. Smaller spots tend to be indicative of younger infections or newly developing problems.
  • Small yellow spots appear on leaves
  • Spots can occur on the lower or upper leaf surfaces, or both
  • Raised, rounded, or sunken spots with fringed or smooth edges
  • Spots may grow together, causing leaves to become totally discolored
  • Stunted growth
  • Premature leaf drop
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The vast majority of yellow spot diseases are caused by fungal pathogens. However, there are some situations in which bacteria, environmental conditions, or other issues may be blamed.
Diseases are typically host-specific, so they may only affect plants within the same family. That said, just about every single species of plant is vulnerable to at least one disease that causes yellow spot. The most common problems are leaf blight, leaf septoria, powdery mildew, and downy mildew, to name a few.
All plants need specific nutrients from the soil to survive. When these nutrients become depleted or unavailable for plant uptake due to particular conditions, deficiencies occur, and yellow spots are seen.
  • Nitrogen is an integral component of chlorophyll.
  • Iron is needed in the enzymes that make chlorophyll.
Yellow spots may also appear because of incorrect watering, mainly underwatering, or infestations of sap-sucking pests such as aphids.
  • Too little water inhibits photosynthesis. Too much water pushes oxygen out of the soil and the roots cannot take in nutrients or even water from the soil.
  • Insect problems can cause yellow spots directly by damaging leaf tissue when feeding, or they may introduce pathogens.
Solutions
Solutions
Diseases
Fungicides can prevent the transmission of spores, but they may not treat the established infection. The first step is removing and disposing of all infected plant parts. Then apply recommended chemicals.
For bacterial infections, apply a spray containing copper or streptomycin.
For fungal infections, consult the local cooperative extension for recommendations on which fungicides will work best.
Nutrient deficiency
Apply a liquid fertilizer via foliar application to fix the deficiency quickly. Follow label directions regarding dosing instructions and application notes, such as not using before the rain or when temperatures are out of the recommended range.
Incorrect watering
Determine the water requirements for your specific plant, and follow accordingly. Some plants like consistently moist soil, and others like the soil to dry out slightly before being watered.
Pests
Thoroughly apply an insecticidal soap, an organic product like neem oil, or an appropriate chemical insecticide to the plant.
Prevention
Prevention
Depending on the type of plant and which specific disease is causing yellow spot, problems may be avoided by taking the following preventative steps:
  • Plant resistant varieties
  • Avoid planting susceptible varieties close together - space susceptible plants further apart from one another so it’s more difficult for the fungal spores to find new plant hosts.
  • Water wisely - water from below rather than splashing water on foliage. This can reduce the spread of both bacterial and fungal pathogens responsible for yellow spot.
  • Prune - prune as a way of getting rid of affected leaves but also to control the spread of yellow spot to new plants. Pruning can also improve air circulation to limit disease spread.
  • Rotate crops - many diseases, including downy mildew, can live in the soil over the winter and produce problems for many years. Rotate annual crops to new locations each year so that they aren’t growing anywhere in which plants in the same family were grown within the last three to four years.
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Weed Control About Nun's-hood orchid

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Weeds
On the Hawaiian Islands within the noncontiguous United States, nun's-hood orchid is considered an invasive threat. It is also considered by some to be invasive in Jamaica. This species' invasive potential is high because it reproduces vegetatively, meaning it can engage in asexual reproduction. It can also survive and tolerate shady growth conditions. Its seeds can be dispersed by animals and people. In Hawaii it is thought to have escaped ornamental cultivation before becoming invasive. This species is still planted ornamentally in some countries. When planting nun's-hood orchid, care should be taken to assure it does not escape its planted area.
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Distribution of Nun's-hood orchid

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Habitat of Nun's-hood orchid

Swampy forest, grassland
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Nun's-hood orchid

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Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Nun's-hood Orchid Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
Common Pests & Diseases
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Flower wilting
Flower wilting is a common disease in Nun's-hood orchid, affecting both bloom and overall health. It usually originates from water stress, pathogens, or unsuitable conditions, resulting in wilting patterns on leaves and blossoms, and in severe cases, plant death.
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Leaf wrinkling
Leaf wrinkling is a common disease affecting Nun's-hood orchid, resulting in foliage damage that may limit its vegetative growth and flowering. The disease can significantly impact the plant's health if not managed promptly.
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Leaf wilting
Leaf wilting is a common plant disease that adversely impacts the vigor and health of the Nun's-hood orchid. Pathogens, environmental mismatches, and nutrient deficiencies typically lead to this condition, causing noticeable wilting and discoloration of leaves, and if unchecked, may result in the death of the plant.
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Flower withering
Flower withering is a disease detrimental to the health of Nun's-hood orchid. It can lead to poor floral development, potential loss of the plant, and hinder reproduction. This disease is caused by a variety of factors, mainly fungal pathogens and environmental conditions.
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Aerial root
Aerial root disease primarily affects the root system of Nun's-hood orchid, leading to wilting leaves and reduced bloom. It spreads quickly across the plant network, impacting the overall health and longevity of the plant.
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Root withering
Root withering is a progressive plant disease that impairs the growth and healthy lifecycle of Nun's-hood orchid by weakening the root structure. Often perpetuated by fungal infections or improper care, the disease results in stunted growth and eventually plant death if left untreated.
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Leaf blotch
Leaf blotch is a fungal infection afflicting Nun's-hood orchid, resulting in irregular brownish-black patches on leaf surfaces. This reduces photosynthetic ability, causes stunted growth, and leads to overall poor health and eventual death if untreated.
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Flower stem withering
Flower stem withering is a disease affecting Nun's-hood orchid severely, leading to premature drooping and eventual death of the plant. The malady primarily caused by excessive moisture and fungal pathogens, directly influences the plant's growth and aesthetic appeal.
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White blotch
White blotch is a fungal disease impacting Nun's-hood orchid. It presents as a snowy white, fluffy growth on leaves, leading to discoloration, wilting, and ultimately plant vitality loss. It's caused by environmental stress and certain fungi.
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Root wrinkling
Root Wrinkling is a pathogenic disease that affects Nun's-hood orchid, leading to shrinkage and discoloration of its roots. The disease, caused primarily by improper care, can impact the plant's growth and ability to absorb nutrients effectively.
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Leaf yellowing
Leaf yellowing in Nun's-hood orchid pertains to a general symptom indicating the plant's poor health, resulting from various stressors such as nutrient deficiency, under-watering, or infection. It can lead to reduced vigor, impaired photosynthesis and, eventually, plant death in severe cases.
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Plants Related to Nun's-hood orchid

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Lighting
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Requirements
Partial sun
Ideal
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Full sun
Tolerance
Above 6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
The nun's-hood orchid embraces a habitat that is fairly illuminated with sun, yet enjoys slight shelter from intense light. The sun's rays, being too harsh, might scorch its foliage. On the other hand, inadequate light exposure could hinder its healthy growth. Its sun requirement may vary across different growth stages.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Nun's-hood orchid thrives in partial sunlight but can tolerate full sunlight in cooler weather. However, during winter when cultivated indoors, it is more prone to light deficiency due to being placed in rooms with insufficient lighting.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Nun's-hood orchid may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Nun's-hood orchid enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To optimize plant growth, shift them to increasingly sunnier spots each week until they receive 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily, enabling gradual adaptation to changing light conditions.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Nun's-hood orchid thrives in partial sun exposure but can handle full sun in cooler weather. However, in the summer, they are prone to sunburn as they cannot tolerate intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Nun's-hood orchid is native to tropical environments with temperature requirements ranging from 68 to 100.4 °F (20 to 38℃). It prefers warmth, tolerating highest up to 100.4°F (38°C). Seasonal adjustments may be required to maintain optimum temperature.
Regional wintering strategies
Nun's-hood orchid is a tropical plant, so during the winter, if the minimum temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it is recommended to bring Nun's-hood orchid indoors for cultivation. Maintaining indoor temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} is highly beneficial. Choose a location near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. Additionally, regularly mist the plant or use a humidifier to maintain humidity levels. For orchids that need to overwinter outdoors, it is essential to ensure they are in a sheltered position that receives sunlight. During colder temperatures, you can set up a temporary greenhouse or use materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plants.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in Nun's-hood orchid
Nun's-hood orchid thrives in warm environments and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It grows best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves will exhibit extensive water-soaked necrosis, wilting, and drooping.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas. Immediately bring indoors to a warm environment for protection against the cold. Choose a location near a south-facing window to place the plant, ensuring ample sunlight. Additionally, avoid placing the plant near heaters or air conditioning vents to prevent excessive dryness in the air.
Symptoms of High Temperature in Nun's-hood orchid
During summer, Nun's-hood orchid should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth will cease, and its leaves will gradually wilt. It becomes more susceptible to root rot and can be easily sunburned when exposed to direct sunlight.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep both the plant and the environment moist.
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